Most natural gas-based appliances such as water heaters, stoves, and furnaces use a thermocouple. This part acts as a safety shut-off device to prevent harmful gas leakage if the pilot light goes out. Knowing how to test a thermocouple when an appliance malfunctions is a vital part of the repair process. Even though standing pilot lights have become somewhat obsolete in recent years, due to the advent of direct ignition technology, there are lots of older, fully serviceable equipment still in use today that use a pilot light, and thus have a thermocouple. Testing one with a multimeter is a job most DIYer’s can do with ease.

Defining a Thermocouple

Before starting the test procedures, a brief description of what a thermocouple is, and how it works is helpful. A thermocouple is a type of electrical device know as a transducer, and in various forms, is found in everything from small toasters to massive industrial kilns. It basically converts the temperature it senses into a certain measure of DC voltage. There are at least two distinctly different metals inside the part that form two separate junctions. The live (hot) junction is connected to the part where temperature needs to be monitored. The base (cold) junction is either kept open, or is connected to a known temperature source as a point of reference. The difference in temperature between the hot and cold junctions is then converted into a measurable voltage.

Let the Testing Begin!

Knowing how to test a thermocouple with a multimeter is an important step in diagnosing why a pilot light goes out, or won’t ignite at all. Before staring the tests, be sure to thoroughly clean the part first, to eliminate any dust or carbon buildup that might have contributed to it’s failure. The equipment needed to perform the first set of basic open circuit checks are simply a multimeter (either digital or analog), and a pair of double-ended alligator clips.

1. Using a digital multimeter, turn it to the millivolt (mV) scale on the DC voltage range.
2. With the alligator clip wires in place on the meter lead ends, clip one test wire to the gas valve (source) and the other one on the exposed copper wire leading to the thermocouple.
3. Now light the pilot light by turning the on/off switch to “pilot”, and then push down on the pilot valve opening button.
4. Hold everything in place for up to a minute to obtain the proper reading. The meter should show about 30 mV +/-5mV.

In-depth Tests

If the reading is found to be proper, then most likely the thermocouple can be ruled out as a source of the problem. However, before you call the service pros in, and if you are game, there is a second, slightly more involved test using the same multimeter and clips as before. These tests are known as closed cicuit, and will give you a more thorough assessment of how to test a thermocouple, as well as possibly revealing any other underlying issues such as draft/flue problems, fuel pressure, and gas valve failure. The use of a special screw-in adapter available through most HVAC dealers is the only additional piece of equipment you will need. It will probably amaze and confuse them to encounter such a dedicated DIYer!

1. The first measurement will check the millivolts drawn by the electromagnetic coil inside the thermocouple. With the pilot light off, and the adapter in place on the thermocouple, a reading of 15 mV should be obtained.
2. The second measurement can now be made with the pilot light on, introducing a certain “load”. This is mainly to determine if the cold junction portion of the unit is being altered by other heat factors. If the flame is proper, the reading should be about the same as before (15 mV).
3. The final test is to see how the magnet reacts to pilot light blow-out. Maximum drop-out time is around 3 minutes, with 1.5 minutes being the norm. If the part is good, the voltage with drop to 1-2 millivolts, and there will an audible “click” when the magnet valve shuts.

Thermocouple as a Test-Bed

Since most commercial thermocouples are relatively inexpensive, a case could be made for not bothering at all with the above closed circuit tests, and just go ahead and replace it. However, this would be a big mistake, because how you test a thermocouple can lead to a better understanding of why your appliance failed in the first place. When the part is blindly replaced without knowing the real reasons for failure, it isn’t fixing the original problem.

One of the best ways to get to the root of thermocouple malfunction, while at the same time determining the efficiency of your appliance, is to examine the pilot flame, and it’s relation to the tip of the thermocouple. When the flame is adjusted for optimal performance, it should envelop the upper 1/2 to 3/8″ of the unit, and the tip should glow a “dull-red” color. Anything brighter than a soft, blue flame will tend to heat the tip excessively to a “cherry-red” color, and eventually cause the tip to weld together, and the part to fail. Particular attention should be given to the cold junction portion of the the thermocouple, as it is highly susceptible to any higher temperatures resulting from an improperly adjusted flame.

Precautions During Testing

Safety concerns linked to the above tests mostly relate to the nature and volatility of natural gas. It’s a good idea to perform these tests with adequate ventilation in place, preferably with fresh air flow-through. Extra care should taken when reconnecting the thermocouple fittings to prevent any cross-threading. To be sure there are no gas leaks associated with an improperly tightened fitting, you can use soapy water to check for any bubbles after the gas is turned back on.

Finishing Up

Even though they are fairly cheap to replace, it’s important to know how to test a thermocouple to expose any other problem areas beyond the part itself. Knowing how to perform even a simple function test can give you a good idea whether your appliance just needs an inexpensive repair, or a more costly fix is in order. You can then decide what course of action to take, and be better prepared for the eventual repair/replacement that follows. Being able to troubleshoot any appliance these days can be quite a rewarding and empowering experience!

Sweating air conditioning ductwork is a significant issue when summers are warm and humid. The cause is simple: The air inside the ducts is cool, and moisture from humid air outside it condenses on AC ductwork like moisture on a glass of iced tea. Condensation on AC ducts is both the symptom of solvable problems and the cause of secondary trouble that can have serious consequences for your home and your health.

This guide gives clear steps to solving problems with condensation on AC ducts so that it does not return.

Why You Might Need to Prevent Condensation on AC Ducts

Condensation on AC ducts demonstrates there is one or more repair issues in your HVAC system and/or your home. Solutions are available below, so you can fix those that apply to your situation:

• Exposed ductwork isn’t insulated;
• There are gaps in ductwork that allow cold air to escape and promote condensation in spots;
• Dirty furnace or air handler filters are slowing the flow of air;
• The ductwork is running in space that is too humid;
• The blower motor isn’t moving air as rapidly as it should.

Here are secondary reasons to prevent condensation on AC ducts. The moisture:

• Promotes mold and mildew that causes odors and is a health risk to people and pets;
• Stains and damages drywall;
• Wets wood framing causing rot and attracting insects that feed on it;
• Wets insulation, compacting it and lowering its effectiveness.

Tools & Materials Needed to Prevent Sweating Ducts

That’s a troubling list! The good news is that you can fix the issues. The tools and materials are grouped by the problem they solve:

• Leaking ducts: Fiberglass mesh tape, mastic duct sealer, chip brush or cheap paintbrush;
• Non-insulated ducts: Duct wrap and cloth duct tape;
• Dirty filters: New furnace or air handler filters;
• Damp basement or crawlspace: Vapor barrier, fiberglass or foam insulation and a dehumidifier;
• Humid attic: Soffit, gable, ridge and roof vents, circular or jig saw, drill, screws, flashing and roofing tar;
• Inadequate airflow: New blower motor, if your current motor can’t be adjusted or repaired.

How to Prevent Condensation on AC Ducts in 6 Steps

Rather than sequential steps, these steps start with basics and go to specifics.

1. Find and Repair Loose Joints in Exposed Ductwork

Visually inspect seams or feel for air leaks and listen for air whistling through the seams with the blower fan running. Spread mastic on loose seams and joints using the cheap brush. Then, reinforce it with fiberglass mesh tape pressed into the mastic.

Cover the tape with a topcoat of mastic.

2. Insulate Exposed Ducts

Wrap the entire duct, when possible, or cover the exposed surfaces. Cover the seams of the wrap with cloth-reinforced vinyl duct tape to ensure it remaining in place long-term.

The US Department of Energy recommends insulating ductwork to reduce energy loss and energy costs, even if condensation isn’t an issue.

3. Clean or Replace Dirty Filters

Dirty filters slow the flow of air and keep cold air in the ducts longer than it should be. Meanwhile, it is promoting condensation on AC ducts.

4. Address Damp Basement or Crawlspace Issues

Cover a dirt floor with a vapor barrier. Seal gaps around pipes and vents with fiberglass batt insulation or spray foam insulation.

Persistent humidity problems below grade require a dehumidifier, preferably one that can drain into a floor drain.

5. Vent the Attic

Attics need to breathe. Otherwise, moist air will cause mold and rot and ruin insulation in addition to causing condensation on AC ducts. Installing vents is a challenging DIY project for most homeowners. Roofers and siding contractors are your best options for pro installation.

• Make sure existing soffit vents are not covered by insulation;
• Install soffit vents between rafter tails by cutting holes in the plywood soffit and securing the vents with screws;
• Install gable vents by cutting the hole through the siding and sheathing from the outside. Use the template included with most gable vents, and securing the vent with screws;
• If your home has a hip roof instead of gables, install roof vents every 20-30 linear feet near the ridge. You can do this by cutting holes in the sheathing and roofing material, securing the vents and using flashing and roof cement to prevent leaks;
• Install ridge vent by removing the ridge cap shingles, nailing down the ridge vent and reinstalling the ridge cap.

6. Adjust or Replace the Blower Motor

An HVAC technician can adjust multi-speed and variable-speed blower motors to meet the ductwork’s airflow requirements. The technician can also repair or replace the blower as necessary.

Caution Notes

• If your attic has exposed rafters, walk on them or lay a board across them to walk on. If you step between rafters, you’re likely to damage the drywall below you or possibly fall through the ceiling.
• Unless you have excellent experience with working on ladders and roofs, installing gable vents, ridge vents and roof vents are jobs better left to professionals.
• Finally, do not attempt to adjust your blower motor. Possible problems include electric shock, injury caused by the fan rotating at more than 1,000 rpm and damage to the blower motor, fan or other furnace parts.

More Ways to Prevent Duct Condensation

If your ducts are insulated, condensation won’t form on them. Until you complete that project, two tips will help reduce condensation on AC ducts.

1. First, keep your thermostat set at 75F or higher when in air conditioning mode. The colder the air is in the ductwork, the more likely condensation will form. So, go easy on the AC.
2. Secondly, if your HVAC system and thermostat have a fan-on mode, use it when humidity is high. Keeping the air flowing over the cold AC coil, even when the AC compressor isn’t running, increases dehumidification. The reduces condensation and keeps your home more comfortable too.

Wrapping Up

If you try any of these solutions at home, posting a comment here about what you did and whether it helped will benefit other readers.

Perhaps your friends and followers could use these tips if you share them on social media using our social media share buttons.

Images: depositphotos.com.

These troubleshooting AC compressor tips will assist you in determining if the compressor is the problem.

If so, let’s see together what the specific issue might be.

Why You Might Need AC Compressor Troubleshooting Tips

If your central air conditioner isn’t working at all or is not adequately cooling your home, it is easy to suspect the compressor because it is the heart of central air conditioning. An AC compressor circulates refrigerant. This is the substance that captures heat inside your home and dumps it outside to cool indoor air.

However, compressors are often blamed when issues like these are causing the problem:

• The circuit is off: Check the circuit in the electrical box and the one mounted on a wall near the condensing unit. A circuit that continues to trip indicates a wire or compressor problem.
• Furnace/air handler filter: A heavily clogged filter can prevent the airflow enough for adequate cooling.
• Iced up indoor coil: If the indoor coil is dirty, it will eventually stop the transfer of heat and cause the unit to freeze up. Turn off the AC, and run the system in fan-only mode until the ice melts. Clean the coil, and restart the system.
• Condenser fan: With the power on, set the thermostat to AC with a set point below the home’s indoor temperature. Check to see if the condenser fan at the top of the condensing unit starts. A condenser fan motor that is locked up will prevent the compressor from starting.

Tools to Keep in Mind

The main tool used to check AC condenser components is an electric multimeter. Troubleshooting AC compressor wiring requires one. If you have a multimeter and know how to use it, locate the C, R and S terminals. Check for continuity between C & R, C & S and R & S. Resistance should be less than 30ohms.

While checking continuity, look for obvious signs of loose, broken, chewed or burned wiring. If there’s continuity and no obvious wiring issues, then troubleshooting AC compressor issues is the next step.

Troubleshooting AC Compressor Problems in 5 Steps

Here are common AC compressor problems and what causes them.

1. Check Fuses and Wiring

Symptom: The AC turns on and off frequently.

Solution: Known as hard starting and short cycling, this problem prohibits adequate cooling and will quickly ruin the compressor. Internal fuses and faulty wiring are the most common causes of hard starting. If you’ve ruled out those causes, adding a hard-start capacitator that gives the compressor additional torque to get started might work. These devices are helpful when an aging capacitor needs a boost. Moreover, installing one can delay the need to replace the unit for several years.

2. Check the Start Capacitor

Symptom: The compressor won’t start or stops shortly after starting.

Solution: The most common cause of this issues is a failed start capacitor. Replacing it is one of the simpler AC compressor repair issues. If replacing the capacitator doesn’t help, the compressor motor is probably wearing out. If the problem is that a fuse or circuit is being tripped, then repair is possible. Also, if not protected by fuse or circuit, the compressor will soon burn out or lock up. Then, the compressor or entire condensing unit will need replacing.

3. Check Refrigerant Level

Symptom: The unit isn’t cooling sufficiently.

Solution: If you’ve already checked the filter and evaporator coil, then the system might not have sufficient refrigerant charge. A leak is the most common cause of this issue. Troubleshooting AC compressor leaks is difficult without training and the right equipment. Repairing and recharging the system requires a refrigerant handling license.

4. Check Pressure Levels

Symptom: Inadequate cooling and/or short cycles because pressurization is too high or low.

Solution: Excessive suction pressure and low discharge pressure prevent proper circulation of refrigerant. So, it can’t remove enough heat to keep up with cooling demand. The pressure levels must be checked, and pressure switches or valves will likely require replacing.

5. Replace the Compressor

Symptom: The compressor runs but doesn’t cool.

Solution: If everything seems to be working normally, but the AC isn’t making cold air, a broken valve in the compressor is a likely cause. It can’t be diagnosed, but is usually determined to be the issue when everything else is ruled out.

Caution Notes

Working on equipment powered by electricity includes the risk of shock causing injury or death. Turn off the circuit when inspecting your condensing unit and compressor for loose, burned or chewed wiring or if you choose to attempt a DIY repair. When working on powered equipment, always use insulated tools to prevent shock.

You won’t be able to buy refrigerant. As we eluded to, EPA regulations (40 CFR Part 82, Subpart F) under Section 608 of the Clean Air Act require that:

Technicians who maintain, service, repair, or dispose of equipment that could release ozone depleting refrigerants into the atmosphere must be certified.

It is illegal to sell refrigerant to anyone who does not have a certificate.

Replacing the Compressor vs. the Entire Unit

A few manufacturers like Goodman and Amana offer warranties that provide replacement of the entire condensing unit if the compressor fails, not just compressor replacement. However, most do not, and even if the compressor is under warranty, labor costs usually are not covered. If your compressor has failed, a better option than repair might be to replace the entire central air conditioner. This gives you the opportunity to select a unit with higher efficiency and superior indoor climate control.

An HVAC representative can estimate the cost of the repair and the cost to replace the condensing unit. We hope this assists you in finding a quick fix or deciding to call an HVAC technician for repair estimates. Troubleshooting AC compressor problems is complicated. So, perhaps your friends and followers would benefit if you share this information with them.

The image is from depositphotos.com.

This guide explains in detail how to light a water heater with electronic pilot when starting a new unit or restarting one after repairs or service.

If you’re unsure what type water heater you have, the Tools & Specs to Keep in Mind section will assist you in determining if your water heater has an electronic pilot. There are tips for keeping you safe when working with gas too.

Why You Might Need to Light a Water Heater

The pilot needs to be lit when:

• A newly installed unit is first started;
• The gas has been shut off for repair or service;
• The water heater stops heating for no apparent reason.

If the last scenario occurs, check that the gas valve handle is parallel to the gas line to indicate it is in the on position. Then, look for a small blue pilot flame in the small window at the bottom of the heater.

If there is no flame and the gas is on, the steps below describe how to light a water heater with electronic pilot. If the pilot is on and the dial is set to hot or one of the hotter settings but the unit still isn’t firing to make hot water, your problem is more likely the gas valve, thermocouple or thermostat and should be diagnosed by a professional.

Tools & Specs to Keep in Mind

Water heaters are fired in one of three ways. So, knowing the type you have is essential to lighting it:

1. Standing pilot, electronically lit: Many newer water heaters require that you know how to light a water heater with electronic pilot. They have a gas control that looks like this one made by Honeywell. Look for a status light that blinks when the pilot is lit and a small igniter button, possibly with a lightning bolt symbol next to it.
2. Standing pilot, manually lit: If your water heater is quite old, it might not have an electronic pilot. There will be no status light or ignition button. We recommend you contact an HVAC company that repairs old water heaters for information on manually lighting the pilot or to discuss replacing the water heater.
3. Electronic ignition without a pilot: Some newer units don’t have standing pilot light, that is, one that is always lit. They fire only when water heating is ncessary. Clues that you have one of these models are that it is newer and does not have an ignition button. If the unit isn’t lighting, it is probably a faulty thermocouple or gas control valve.

How to Light a Water Heater with Electronic Pilot in 6 Steps

If you’re sure your water heater has an electronic pilot (type 1 above), locate its gas control assembly. It is a box attached near the bottom of the unit with a rotating control knob or dial, igniter button, status window, wiring and the gas line attached.

Here are step-by-step instructions for how to light a water heater with electronic pilot:

1. If the water heater has electrical wiring for a fan or other function, then make sure its circuit is on;
2. Turn the gas valve to the on position, if necessary;
3. Rotate the gas-control knob or dial to the pilot position;
4. Depress the knob. Then, hold it down while completing the next step;
5. Press the ignition button about once per second. Take this action until you see the status light begin to blink every few seconds. This indicates that the pilot is lit. The process that takes up to 60 seconds in a newly installed unit;
6. Once the pilot is lit (its blue flame can be seen through the small observation window), turn the knob to the hot position or a hotter setting, if you prefer. Then, listen or look for the gas burner to fire.

If the burner stays lit, you know how to light a water heater with electronic pilot!

Bonus Tips

If the water heater doesn’t fire, there are two more tips that might solve the problem.

• Sometimes, the pilot will go out before you can turn the knob to one of the water temperature settings. This is because the thermocouple hasn’t heated sufficiently. If that happens, wait 10 seconds before adjusting the knob from pilot to a temperature setting.
• If repeated attempts to light the pilot and water heater fail, look for a small reset button at the base of the unit with wiring to it. Also, if your water heater has one, press and hold it for five seconds. Then, retry the process.

Caution Notes

Never try to light an electronic pilot with mechanical means such as a match or barbecue lighter. If you can’t get an electronic pilot lighted using the steps below, the control assembly might have to be replaced before attempting to use the appliance.

Before starting any gas appliance, check the gas connection to make sure it tight. NEVER check for a gas leak with a flame. Mix a few drops of water with a few drops of liquid dish detergent, and apply the solution to the gas connection. View the connection from all angles. Bubbles in the solution indicate a gas leak. If bubbles develop, tighten the connection, and test it again.  Also, check to ensure that the installer wrapped the pipe with gas-sealing PTFE tape, which is very thin and yellow. If you don’t see it, turn off the gas, disconnect the line and add the tape before reconnecting and testing the line.

If a gas leak persists, turn off the gas, air out the space and call an HVAC professional for assistance.

Join the Conversation

Hopefully your unit is running now, creating the hot water you need.

If this method helped, would your Facebook friends and other social media contacts benefit from knowing how to light a water heater with electronic pilot? Feel free to join the conversation here. Share your experience with other readers using the comment form!

Image from depositphotos.com.

The statistics paint a compelling picture: This is a good time to consider an HVAC training and explore the many careers in HVAC and refrigeration.

The outstanding job prospects, good pay and interesting work are among the top reasons HVAC-R is a career path many are already looking into.

Employment of heating, air conditioning, and refrigeration mechanics and installers is projected to grow 14 percent from 2014 to 2024, much faster than the average for all occupations.

The above data is according to the Bureau of Labor and Statistics. The BLS predicts that nearly 40,000 jobs will be added in the industry during that decade, with opportunities across the United States.

What Does an HVAC Career Offer You?

Let’s look at the pros and cons of getting HVAC training and pursuing an HVAC career. Below you can see the advantages.

1. Outstanding Job Outlook

The 14 percent job growth expected through 2024 is a top reason for considering HVAC training. See Best Options below for a breakdown of top jobs within this sector.

2. Good Pay

The median income is $45,910 per year based on an hourly wage of $22.07 (BLS statistics).

3. Mobility

This sector is experiencing job growth across the country, though the most jobs opening for those with HVAC training are east of the Mississippi and in the South. So, you’ll have options for finding a job where you want to live. Interestingly, places like North Dakota and Montana have fewer job openings than densely populated areas. But wages are higher because of the scarcity of trained HVAC professionals.

There are tens of thousands of job openings outside the US too, if you’re the adventurous type that would like to see the world while building a career and earning good pay.

4. Job Diversity

While most jobs are in installation, repair and maintenance, there are many related fields that require HVAC training. Even as an HVAC tech, each repair or installation job is a new setting. So, you’re never stuck in one location day after day.

If the hands-on work isn’t for you, the HVAC industry needs:

• Managers;
• Sales pros;
• System designers;
• Customer service representatives.

5. Accessibility to the Career

HVAC training is not long or expensive compared with many other professions. Basic HVAC training and certification programs take as little as six months. Most HVAC training programs are 10-12 months. Those offering associate’s degrees are 18-24 months.

HVAC tuition costs for a basic certificate program average $6,000 to $9,000 and $17,000 to $30,000 for an Associate’s degree in HVAC. Many local trade schools and community colleges have HVAC programs, so moving away from home to get the education probably isn’t necessary.

6. Innovation

The rising global demand for ecofriendly, efficient heating, air conditioning and refrigeration makes this an exciting time to be part of the industry. Innovation is occurring rapidly in technologies such as:

• Variable-speed compressors;
• Smart homes/automated homes;
• Geothermal heating and cooling;
• Variable refrigerant flow (VRF) systems being adapted for residential use in addition to their commercial applications.

If you want to be involved in an industry that is having a positive impact on the planet and on individual homes, the HVAC-R meets that criteria.

The Cons Are:

• Some HVAC program graduates find it hard to get that first job without experience. So, it makes sense to get training from a school that offers internships or apprenticeships;
• The job can be physically demanding, for example when you’re hauling an old furnace out of a basement or are on your knees for hours installing an air handler in crawlspace;
• Long work hours during peak times in summer and winter. But the upside is overtime pay for those hours;
• Many local heating and air conditioning companies offer 24-hour emergency service. So, there might be times you’re called out in the middle of the night or on a weekend to make a repair. However, technicians often receive premium pay when on-call and making emergency repairs;
• Technicians working for small, local heating and cooling companies don’t have as many career-advancement opportunities as those working for large service companies. That’s why having a robust education and NATE certification (see below) are recommended.

What Skills Do You Need to Be an HVAC Technician?

Generally, you should be comfortable using hand tools and enjoy working with mechanical systems. This translates into taking machinery apart, repairing it and putting it back together. The specific HVAC technician skills you must have are also those that HVAC training programs provide. These include expertise and experience in:

• EPA 608 certification and R-410a refrigerant certification;
• Climate control systems;
• Thermostatic controls;
• Electrical wiring;
• Air conditioning and heat pump systems;
• Boilers;
• HVAC troubleshooting, installation, maintenance and repair;
• Refrigerant system recharging;
• Warm-air heat systems;
• Energy-efficient/green HVAC technology;
• Refrigeration systems and control (If you want to work in refrigeration).

Six-month programs don’t cover all these bases. The more education and training you have, the better your entry-level job prospects will be, the higher your wages will be and the faster you will be able to advance in your career. Our post on HVAC Certification includes a list of schools offering HVAC training and information about each program.

Also plan to become NATE-certified. NATE stands for North American Technician Excellence. It is a professional organization that offers testing in basic HVAC knowledge and skills and in specialty fields within the industry. Certifications include:

• Work-Ready certificate;
• HVAC Support Technician certificate;
• Professional certificate.

It also has specialties in:

• Gas and oil hydronic systems;
• HVAC efficiency analyst
• Ground source heat pump loop installation;
• Air distribution.

NATE certification tells employers that you have mastered the knowledge and skills necessary to get the job done correctly the first time. Some employers require the appropriate NATE certifications before hiring or advancing an employee.

Best Options in the Field of HVAC

The BLS reports that more than 294,000 people work in the HVAC industry. Also, the field offers a variety of career options. Yet, installing and repairing residential and commercial HVAC-R equipment is the largest segment.

• HVAC-R mechanics and installers: 212,810;
• HVAC direct sales: 9,410;
• HVAC wholesale sales: 8,070;
• Commercial & industrial HVAC service: 6,170;
• Educational facilities: 5,620.

These HVAC occupations account for 78% of all jobs in the industry. The statistics don’t include self-employed HVAC contractors such as the owners of local HVAC companies that employ most of the 294,000 workers in the industry. Most of those owners began their careers as HVAC technicians and later started their businesses. That’s an attractive career path for those with practical experience as an HVAC technician who have also obtained a business education.

A small percentage of the HVAC careers are in aerospace manufacturing, telecommunications, natural gas distribution and a wide range of related jobs.

To the Point

If this information has raised your interest in HVAC training, search online for training schools or call your local community college to find out what training programs are available near you.

Your friends and followers on social media might appreciate the information too as they consider their career. So, please pass it along if it has been helpful to you!

Image 1.

If you think you need a Freon leak detector, then you definitely need one since Freon leaks are a serious matter. Prolonged exposure to Freon can lead to fluid buildup in our lungs, lung failure, heart issues, brain damage, and even death. If your HVAC unit is placed outside and you think you are safe from all these risks, think again since it can easily enter your home.

It’s true that Freon is a heavy gas and will pool at ground level, but this still means it’s hazardous for children and pets. In addition, a refrigerant leak can raise your energy bills with as much as 35%. Here are the main types of Freon leak detectors and their advantages and disadvantages:

Professional Freon Leak Detector:
Types and Features

Before jumping into the whole refrigerant leak detection equipment discussion, we want to mention that “Freon detection” generally refers to identifying all types of refrigerants.

Now, here are the most common and the most efficient methods to detect Freon leaks:

Liquid Freon Leak Detectors

You can easily create liquid Freon leak detectors at home, by mixing soap or laundry detergent with water. Apply the resulting substance on piping and wait for bubbles to appear – this means you localized the leak and can proceed to seal it tight. This method is widely used by amateurs and professionals both. However, you can also purchase liquid Freon leak detectors that are ready-made.

Pros of Liquid Freon Leak Detectors

• Very cheap.
• Easy to make and use.

Cons of Freon Leak Detectors

• Not suitable for inaccessible spaces.
• Not as accurate as other methods.
• The ready-made ones have little to no advantages over homemade ones.

Note: Soapy solutions are best used together with other detection methods.

If you already tried it and don’t consider the old soapy water a reliable Freon leak detection method, you have a few other options available. These are manufactured and designed specifically for this purpose, thus being reliable and precise.

Infrared Freon Leak Detector

These devices use infrared sensors to detect any refrigerant leaks in your home. They smartly use refrigerants’ different reflectivity to infrared radiation to give accurate results in real time. An infrared Freon leak detection device has an accuracy of +/- 1.8°F for temperatures between 32 and 212 degrees Fahrenheit.

Pros of an Infrared Freon Leak Detector

• Instant results.
• Can detect R404A, R407C, R410A, R134A, R417A, R422A, R507A, R143A, R125, and R245fa refrigerants.
• Highly accurate if used within their maximum efficiency temperature range.
• No risk of false positives due to moisture, oil, or gas leaks.
• Can be used within a minute from starting the device.

Cons of an Infrared Freon Leak Detector

• Naturally, it cannot be used to detect leaks from areas that are not visible.
• For environments colder than 32 and hotter than 212 degrees Fahrenheit, their accuracy drops.
• They are almost useless in environments colder than -4 or hotter than 932 degrees Fahrenheit.

Electronic Freon Leak Detector

There are 2 main types of electronic Freon leak detectors available: Negative corona and heated diode devices. Negative corona Freon leak detectors create a high voltage electric arc that is sensitive to refrigerants. When the electric corona detects Freon leaks, the device rings an alarm to let you know.  Heated diode Freon leak detectors use heat to break refrigerant molecules apart into Fluorine and Chlorine ions, which can be detected by heated diodes.

These devices have been around for a few decades and impressed professionals from the start with their accuracy and newer models are much more precise.

Pros of Electronic Freon Leak Detectors

• Can detect leaks in inaccessible areas.
• They are more and more precise as technology advances.

Cons of Electronic Freon Leak Detectors

• Negative corona electronic Freon leak detectors can malfunction in areas with high concentrations of refrigerant. This has been a problem ever since the beginning and, although significant progress has been made, it can still affect their functioning today.
• False alarms are also likely when other chemicals are present in the air with both types of electronic detectors.
• They have a fairly short range.

Fluorescent Dye Freon Leak Detector

Many professionals choose light-responsive dyes instead of soapy solutions to detect Freon leaks. These can be injected into the refrigeration system and is carried by the refrigerant through piping. Then, you can use a UV light to see where the dye leaked out of the system. This method is considered the best Freon leak detector at the moment.

Pros of Dye Freon Leak Detectors

• Highly accurate.
• They are not affected by other chemicals.
• No false positives.
• They pose no health threats.

Cons of Dye Freon Leak Detectors

• They cannot be used for larger industrial systems or car ACs since visibility is a must.
• Depending on the size of your system and the diameter of the puncture, it can take up to a few hours or even days to see results.

Halide Torch as a Freon Leak Detector

Halide torches can be used to detect Freon leaks. Chlorine-based refrigerants will change the flame’s color from blue to green. They use a probe hose to draw in air, which is then exposed to a copper reactor plate that has been previously heated.

Pros of the Halide Torch as a Freon Leak Detector

• This method shows instant results.
• Halide torches make it easier to accurately locate leaks.

Cons of the Halide Torch as a Freon Leak Detector

• It can only detect CFCs (chlorofluorocarbon-based refrigerants) and HCFCs (hydrochlorofluorocarbon-based ones).
• It uses an open flame, which can be dangerous in some environments.
• Many things can interfere with their accuracy: Wind can make it impossible for the device to collect the gas, thus leading to false negatives.
• In addition, direct sunlight can make changes in the flame’s color hard to observe.

Ultrasonic Freon Leak Detector

Ultrasonic leak detectors are high precision systems that detect seal failures and pipe punctures in compressed air and gas systems. An ultrasonic leak detection device identifies the high-frequency noise refrigerants produce when leaking. They can accurately detect leaks up to 65 feet away and make it easy to identify the source thanks to an integrated point sight.

In addition, they can use a laser pointer to accurately detect leaks in areas with restricted access. Many have a transparent reflector, which offers precision without obstructing visibility.

Pros of an Ultrasonic Freon Leak Detector

• Equipped with a highly-sensitive detection sensor.
• Extremely precise in localizing the Freon leak thanks to visual stimuli.
• Long-distance Freon leak detection.

Cons of an Ultrasonic Freon Leak Detector

• Their accuracy is not satisfactory when used in noisy environments. Although many have features that prevent background noise from interfering with the results, it still affects the final result.

Note: Ultrasonic refrigerant leak detectors can be used together with a soapy solution to increase their precision. The sound of bubbles bursting will be easier to detect by these devices.

Other Tips & Tricks

If none of these methods identified a Freon leak, you seem to be safe. However, if you still suspect something might be wrong with your appliance’s refrigerant piping, you can perform a pressure test. For this, you will need a tank of pressurized dry nitrogen. It should go without saying the gas should be oxygen-free, but we want to highlight this aspect anyway. If you use a soapy solution, a 10-bar nitrogen flow should be enough to make the liquid bubble up.

In addition, keep the following in mind:

• Never stop investigating after finding a leak. Check the whole system, since leaks and punctures are most often caused by wear.
• Choose high-quality piping and joints. These are less likely to wear out and will last longer.
• Cap all valves. Uncapped ones are the most common source of refrigerant leakage.
• Never place appliances that use refrigerant in unstable areas. Vibrations, physical shock, or chafing will deteriorate the piping which will, in time, start to leak.
• Never ignore maintenance or try to reduce costs by choosing cheap repair services. You might get lucky by avoiding maintenance and professional repair services, but not for long.

Freon Leak Monitoring Systems

If you want to make sure a future refrigerant leak will not go unnoticed, a multi-point refrigerant monitor is what you need. These use audio and visual signals to let you know when a leak has been detected. Here’s what to keep in mind when looking for a permanent refrigerant monitoring system:

• The refrigerants your appliances use should be the most important factor. You don’t want to end up with a device that only detects CFCs and HCFCs when your fridge has HFC.
• The device’s placement should be the next aspect you think about. The main unit should be placed in a highly visible spot in your home – like the hallway. At least one sensor should be right next to the appliances that use refrigerant.
• Keep in mind that air conditioners or heat pumps with fans will direct the air in a certain direction.

Freon Leak Detector Final Thoughts

Please don’t try to install these devices by yourself unless you are a specialized technician. Your family’s health and lives are at stake, so cutting corners should not be an option.

Image source.

 

Ductless heating and cooling systems have a continuously growing popularity. More Americans choose split or multi-split HVAC systems over ducted ones. Although the main reason they do so is convenience when installing them, ductless systems are superior when talking about running costs, comfort, air quality, and environmental effects.

How Ductless Heating and Cooling Systems Can Benefit You

Just as ducted heating and cooling systems, ductless ones can be used all year around. However, a ductless heating and cooling system has multiple benefits over traditional ducted ones. Here are the most important ones.

1. Ductless Heating and Cooling Systems Are Adaptable to Your Interior Design

Ductless systems are mistakenly believed to interfere with each home’s aesthetics, this simply isn’t true. The inside units, also called air handlers, have a timeless look that will fit in any interior. In addition, they come in a multitude of sizes, shapes, and colors so they can be matched with each room’s color scheme. Portable split systems are connected to their outside unit through a flexible pipe. Therefore, they can be stored in a nearby closet or behind a couch when not in use.

2. Ductless Heating and Cooling Systems Are Easier to Install

The first advantage we notice when installing a ductless heating and cooling system is how flexible it is. Although ducted systems usually have vents that are leveled with the walls and floors in our homes, they can only be installed at a certain distance from their main unit. A ductless system’s outside unit can be placed up to 50 feet away from the inside unit(s) without considerably affecting the performance. In addition, the air handlers can be installed on walls, ceilings, or floor if space is limited.

All ductless heating and cooling systems reviews have one thing in common: Quick and easy installation. Given they are ductless, these HVAC systems require less labor and generate far less clutter than central air conditioners. Their ducted counterparts can take days to install and leave behind pounds of debris, but ductless systems are a breeze. They only require a 3-inch hole in the wall, which is then insulated in a few minutes.

3. Ductless Heating and Cooling Systems Are Cheaper to Run

Energy costs widely vary across the United States, but one thing is sure: Electricity is more expensive than a few years ago. Although ductless heating and cooling systems cost more than other HVAC systems, monthly utility bills are up to 30% lower. This might seem exaggerated but the truth is, no matter how well-insulated ducts are, they lose a lot of energy.

In addition, the variable-speed compressor technology in ductless systems adjusts their functioning to the current outside temperature. Therefore, the initial investment will pay off in the not-so-long run. Energy star certified appliances also make you eligible for government rebates and incentives, which further cuts down costs.

4. Ductless Heating and Cooling Systems Are Customizable

Being able to individually control temperatures in different rooms make ductless cooling and heating systems highly flexible. Multi-split systems are particularly effective at acclimatizing only part of your house. This helps you conserve energy, reduce utility expenses, and be environmentally friendly. Each air handler has its own thermostat which increases the accuracy of the system and your overall comfort.

Timers and special functions can be particularly useful in saving energy and keeping your house greener. On a typical Saturday, your ductless system can automatically stop heating up or cooling down the bedrooms once everyone has gotten up. During the day, it is generally needed in the living room and/or dining room. Once evening comes, the system will resume its activity in the bedrooms and stop working in common areas that will no longer be occupied. Some systems can even be programmed to work differently during workdays and weekends, which can be extremely useful.

More appliances today come with a Wi-Fi connection that allows you to control them through a web or mobile app.

5. Ductless Heating and Cooling Systems Improve Air Quality

Modern split or multi-split heating and cooling systems also work as air purifiers. They are equipped with filters that gather dust particles, allergens, or microorganisms and protect your family from airborne diseases. They also reduce cross-contamination to nearby rooms or unpleasant smells that can occur in a home. If these filters are regularly cleaned, using an air purifier becomes redundant.

Most ductless systems manufactured in the last few years also have a humidity control function. Its main benefit is maintaining a comfortable environment in your home, but can also have health benefits. Your eyes, respiratory system, and skin can be affected by air that is excessively dry or humid. By keeping humidity constant and at healthy levels, ductless systems actively protect you from health complications – be it summer or winter.

6. Ductless Heating and Cooling Systems Are Environmentally Friendly

Ductless system’s impressive energy efficiency is not only great news for our pockets. By consuming less energy, these appliances lower the carbon footprint of your home. Ductless systems smartly use thermodynamics to acclimatize our homes, but they also use advanced chemistry to be eco-friendly. By replacing pollutant substances that were used as refrigerants with the new R410A, modern ductless systems reduced their effect on the ozone layer close to zero.

7. Ductless Heating and Cooling Systems Are Less Noisy

You can forget about rumbling, rattling, or even humming with a ductless heating and cooling system. When in use, the outside unit is considerably quieter than its ducted counterparts. In fact, it is quiet enough to not distinguish its noise with the windows closed. The inside air handlers are as noisy as a whisper, or about 20 dB.

8. Ductless Heating and Cooling Systems Need Less Maintenance and Repairs

Given there are fewer components, the maintenance process takes less time and is cheaper for a ductless system. In addition, repairs are also less costly and messy given all the components are easily accessible. In a ducted system, however, plenty of things can go wrong.

In a ducted system, poor connections among different segments of the duct or deficient insulation can lead to considerable energy losses. This leads to high expenses and a considerable amount of time invested in optimizing the system. With a ductless heating and cooling system, this is no longer an issue.

9. Ductless Heating and Cooling Systems Have a Long Lifespan

The average life expectancy of a split or multi-split heating and cooling system is between 10 and 16 years. However, if properly maintained, a ductless heating and cooling system can last over 20 years.

Of course, for all these to be valid you need to create favorable conditions for your ductless heating and cooling system.

How to Make Sure You Enjoy These Benefits from Day 1

Here are some tips and tricks that will maximize the efficiency of a ductless cooling and heating system as soon as the installation is complete:

• Choosing the right system size is by far the most important step. An undersized one will not provide enough warm or cool air for its designated space and will waste a lot of energy while trying to keep up. At the same time, an oversized unit will cost more than needed for its purpose.
  • For small or medium-sized rooms of up to 350 square feet, a 9,000 BTU inside air handler should be enough to provide a constant temperature. Rooms of up to 500 square feet usually require a 12,000 BTU indoor unit. For rooms of around 750 square feet, an 18,000 BTU system would make more sense.
  • Larger common spaces like dining rooms or living rooms with open space kitchens will need more powerful air handlers. A 1,000 square feet room will be comfortably acclimatized by a 24,000 BTU inside unit. For rooms of 1,200-1,300 square feet, an air handler of 30,000 BTU is required. Spaces of 1,500 square feet can be successfully acclimatized by a 36,000 BTU inside unit.
  • Outdoor units for multi-split systems are designed to meet the combined flow of multiple indoors air handlers. Nevertheless, larger homes might need 2 or 3 multi-split outdoor units to keep up.

• Changing or cleaning the filters every 3 months is a must for an efficient appliance that lets out clean air. Filters are effective at gathering dust or potentially harmful microorganisms, but they can become health hazards if not cleaned or changed. The warm, sometimes humid, spongy material can become an agreeable place for said microorganisms to multiply. When the system is turned on, these will be released into the air you breathe – which is not desirable.

• Maintenance is the second most important procedure that will improve the functioning of your ductless HVAC system. A yearly maintenance visit from a professional is recommended, even when things seem to run smoothly. This will guarantee your split or multi-split appliance will work efficiently and provide a comfortable temperature all year around.

Acclimatization stopped being a caprice a long time ago. Today, it is an amenity everyone needs to have access to. Choose a green and healthy appliance for cooling and heating your home; Go ductless!

Image sources: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.