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What You Need to Know about Attic Insulation

November 17, 2016 by Sindy Aubrey

All journeys for a cozy home should begin with attic insulation. It’s economical, comfort-inducing, and it doesn’t even require the implication of an expert. Read below to see how you can do it yourself and what you need to know to avoid some common mistakes.

Attic Insulation Method

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Introduction

“Winter is coming” isn’t something that’s capable of instilling fear in the hearts of fictional characters alone. All of us know the implications of the arrival of the cold season – on our health and on our pockets. Improper house insulation can often be the source of trouble in both these instances. If you’re not shielded well enough against the cold, you will have to turn up the heaters to maximum. Worse, if they’re not capable of keeping you warm regardless, you might just end up with a nasty cold on your hands.

A lot of times, that troublesome draft that won’t stop pestering you even when you’re in your bed under five layers of blankets sneaks in through the attic. After all, the higher a point, the more exposed to chilly winds it is. Considering this, the first step for economy and comfort is attic insulation.

Why Attic Insulation?

Empty Attic View

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It’s true that the attic allows much of the cold and the heat to sneak in and fall through the walls and floors. But the biggest issue with attics is that they’re huge heat losers. Whenever you’re sitting comfortably by the fireplace, a good chunk of the heat is lost through the attic. The reverse applies during summertime, when your cooling systems “donate” the chilly air to the attic. The attic, in turn, essentially swaps it for heat waves.

Less Costly Bills

As a result of all the heat loss, you get the cherry on top: a pretty dazing energy bill. Because it can’t stabilize your house’s temperature, your HVAC system is overworking itself. Thus, it’s draining extra energy and this extra energy shows in your monthly expenses.

Through attic insulation, you can ensure that your house won’t lose any more heat or cold. Therefore, there won’t be any need for that extra tap into energy reserves to stabilize temperature. The temperature will be stabilized by itself.

Eco Friendly Homes

There are quite a few ways through which you can adapt your home so that it’s more environment-friendly. Amazingly enough, the simple act of attic insulation can make quite the change. Any time you take steps forward to energy preservation, you take a step forward to creating an ecologically friendly household.

Extra House Space

How many people do you know who use their attic for storage and nothing else? Most of the time, this happens because the attic is just no place for anyone to be living or sleeping in. However, through insulation, you can earn a new room in your house. You can turn it into a spare bedroom, a spare living room, or a fun activity chamber.

The Two Types of Attic Insulation

Once you make the decision to insulate your attic, the first major choice you need to make is which type you’re going to use. In this regard, you have two options: loose fill and blanket (also shortened as batt).

Loose Fill Insulation

Loose Fill Insulation

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This type of insulation requires the fiber to be packaged and loaded into a special machinery. You can rent one from a home center in order to propel the fiber manually. This way, you can adjust to the desired height and density. One of the biggest downfalls, however, is that you require to invest a lot more physical labor. Even more, for first-timers, it’s difficult to achieve the desired effects.

Regardless, though, sometimes it’s the only option. There are some particular instances in which you should actually opt for loose fill over blanket.

  • If your attic has irregular joint spacing;
  • If there is already an existing insulation in your attic (because loose fill is the best option for thoroughly filling in joints and gaps);
  • If you have many obstructions to work around;
  • If your attic has limited headroom for maneuvering.

Blanket Insulation

Blanket Insulation

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Like the name suggests, blanket insulation involves fiber that has been already put together in a standard-sized material. It essentially works like a “blanket” as it covers the desired surface. Measurements are pre-established (usually with thicknesses between 16 inches and 24 inches). The material is packaged into rolls and it’s specifically made to leave no openings and fit between joints.

Some of them come with a paper or a foil facing in order to create a vapor barrier. Just like with loose fill insulation, there are ways to know if blanket is the best kind of attic insulation for you.

  • If your attic has standard joint spacing;
  • If you haven’t had any insulations previously;
  • If there aren’t many obstructions or limitations to work around;
  • If your attic has a headroom spacious enough for maneuvers during installation.

Fibers and Materials for Attic Insulation

For different kinds of insulations, there are different kinds of materials. However, as far as attic insulation is concerned, you don’t need to worry about filtering through the myriad of materials on the market. Some of the most popular choices have been popular for a good reason. Stick with them and you will have plenty of good results.

Fiberglass

Fiberglass consists typically of extremely thin glass spun into fibers. It’s sometimes associated with sand or with another type of glass that can make it more durable.

In blanket: Manufacturers prefer to incorporate fiberglass into batts, which you can differentiate especially through density. Medium and high-density fiberglass batts are meant to be used in areas with limited cavity space. This is why they’re perfect, for example, for insulating cathedral ceilings.

In loose fill: It’s one of the lightest of the materials for attic insulation. The biggest disadvantage is that fiberglass tends to settle in more, so you need to add in an extra thick layer to make it work.

Biggest downside: Fiberglass isn’t exactly a material that’s friendly to your health. It can irritate your lungs and skin, but this can be avoided if you purchase the material from a top-notch manufacturer. Also, it’s not that good at blocking air flow, so if this is a typical problem you want to get rid of, it won’t help that much.

Mineral Wool

The term “mineral wool” can refer to either of these two specific types of materials:

  • Rock wool, which is a material composed of natural minerals such as diabase and basalt;
  • Slag wool, which is a material made from blast furnace slag. The term defines the scum developed by metal when it’s molten.

Mineral wool is a relatively chemical-free material as its composition is roughly 75% post-industrial recycled materials. Manufacturers produce it so that it’s fire-resistant and that it can act as an insect repellant. In order to make it fire-resistant, though, there is no need for additional chemicals.

Biggest downside: It’s probably one of the more expensive attic insulation materials. This is partly due to the fact that it contains natural fire-resistant properties.

Cellulose

Cellulose is produced using recycled paper products, most typically newspapers. It contains the biggest percentage of recycled materials out of the fibers on this list – around 85%. The ending result manages to pack into building cavities and to stop unwanted air flow from breezing through.

You can best use cellulose in loose fill attic insulation methods.

Biggest downside: Even though it doesn’t pose any risks for your lungs and skin, they’re slightly more difficult to come by. Not many manufacturers produce cellulose fiber. Moreover, you should avoid exposure to humid environments and moisture, as the material can rot or grow moldy.

Common Attic Insulation Mistakes to Avoid

Attic Ladder

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It may seem like attempting a DIY attic insulation sounds scary, but you should generally be well-set as long as you abide by a set of basic regulations.

Always Prepare in Advance

You decide one day that it’s time to take care of the heat and energy losses caused by your attic. That’s great! But don’t jump into the installation process without properly setting the path to your goal. You’d be surprised by the number of people that overlook some pretty basic preparation steps.

Always check that you have a steady ladder, that your lightning is good enough, that you have the right tools, etc.

Choose the Insulation Right

Accidentally going for the wrong kind of insulation will do more harm than good. You’ll end up investing some money and effort and it will all be for naught. Consider the guidelines we’ve written previously, see if they apply, and eventually check-in with an expert for feedback.

Cover it All

Every little spot and gap matters. If you think you’re done and then notice one tiny gap in the floor, don’t brush it off! This tiny gap can make the difference between your savings and comfort improvement.

Closing Lines

Through attic insulation you’ll save up on money, live more comfortably, protect the environment, and extend your household. The thing you must be more careful about is the type of insulation to go for. Once you’ve made your choice, the next big step is the material.

Filed Under: Heating Tagged With: attic, attic insulation, blanket insulation, free loose insulation, Insulation, insulation materials, insulation types

Complying With Building Code Enforcement 101

February 8, 2016 by itadmin

Insulating your home, building or office for the winter is a very good idea, for a variety of reasons. The first one would be reducing costs as far as heating, gas and electricity bills go. Comfort is also important, as through insulation we’re trying to keep our homes as warm as possible. And last but not least, we’re always trying to be as eco-friendly as possible. The less energy we consume, the greener we are. But insulating our homes may not be as easy as it appears at first glance. There are some rules and regulations to comply with, because insulation needs to be done after a certain general standard, imposed by the law. Here is your 101 on how to comply with the building code enforcement this winter.

Complying With Building Code EnforcementAll building regulations serve under the International Building Code, a model building code which was developed by the IIC or International Code Council and has been adopted by most of the states in the US. The European Union has its own code, called the Eurocode, as does Canada with the National Canadian Building Code.

In the US, the organizations that adopt model building codes statewide are the state governments, counties, fire districts and municipalities. Some private sector model codes do exist. They are funded by the federal government and used by the Department of Defense, the National Park Service, the Department of State and the Forest Service. This is due to the fact that their buildings have special features.

History has shown that a model building code has a medium life span of 3 to 5 years, after which it should be updated. So, you have don’t a code in 2009, 2010, 2011 and so on, but rather a 2006 edition, a 2009 one and another in 2012. The stress here is on updating the existent code. Because organizations don’t come up with a whole new building code every 3 or 5 years, but, rather, bring forward new and improved versions of the current one.

Also, an important thing to mention is the fact that the new versions are not automatically adopted. This means that when the new variant comes out, some states or jurisdictions or a certain county might choose not to adopt it, but rather to continue running on the old one. The reason why this happens is because, normally, it takes a lot of time to adopt a new model. It must be voted upon, the officials or congress need to sign it and all the inspectors must receive training on it. An exam can be taken and reports are made.

This is very important for you to know, so it might be a good idea to inquire exactly which version your state or city is using when deciding to insulate your home.

Most of the Building Code’s body of text refers to prevention against fires and it has regulations that establish the number, size and location of fire exists. But, seeing as it is a 700 page book, it includes many chapters on safety, residential buildings and insulation, as follows:

  • Occupancy classifications, based on their primary function and how many people they are going to house according to that;
  • Heights and areas;
  • Interior finishes;
  • Foundation, wall and roof construction;
  • Fire protection systems,  which regulates sprinkler system requirements as well as their design;
  • Materials used in construction;
  • Elevators and escalators;
  • Already existing structures;
  • Means of egress – they refer to the escaping routes accessibility, especially in case of an emergency, such as a fire, earthquake or terrorist attack. Seismic prevention is taken very seriously.

You can also find the building code online, in PDF or E-laws format, available for free download.

Although, as mentioned above, most of the states have adopted the uniform International Code, there were some that have had problems with it. The most famous case is California. Their National Fire Association division or NFPA, joined the ICC at first to create an universal code. But misunderstandings lead to the NFPA’s withdrawal from the project and teaming up with International Association of Plumbing and Mechanical Officials (IAPMO), the American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) and the Western Fire Chiefs Association to create their own codes. In 2002 they published the Comprehensive Consensus Codes, which includes the famous NFPA 5000 that California quickly adopted. Although it was dropped when Governor Schwarzenegger was elected, it still caused disparity between California and other states, such as Florida, New York and Michigan.

Recommendations made via the Building Code Enforcement on Insulation

First of all, one thing you should know about is the R-value, because this is the most common term you will come across while researching or reading about insulation. The R-value is a measure of thermal resistance for a particular material, where R means how thick the material normalized is to thermal conductivity.

  • The US Department of Energy has been recommending in the past years R-30 and R-38 ceiling insulation, but you can go higher and still comply with the code. As a matter of fact, since we always want our homes to be as efficient in keeping out the cold as possible, architects and builders use a promo R-50 up to R-60 insulation. However, violations do happen. Of course, the level depends on the local temperatures and the climate zone you live in. Also, you should always keep in mind that there actually is such a thing as ‘too much’ insulation. Simply because, at some point, it becomes moot. And, if you keep on adding a mass of layers you will just be spending your money and getting no extra results. You can always get a certification, to be sure you put enough in. Also, while discussing money you can find commercial coupons online that can get you up to 40 per cent off the original price.
  • Use the ZIP code insulation calculator to determine how much insulation you actually need for the area you live in, in order to comply with the building code. You can find it on the Department of Energy’s website and you can also use the R-Value Recommendations Calculator, although it has fewer options.
  • Your total window area must be equal to or less than 30 per cent of the total exterior wall area.
  • The combined window area of your east, south and west walls must be equal to or less than 30 per cent of the combined perimeter of these walls.
  • Your skylight area, in total, must not be more than 1.2 square meters.
  • Your total leadlight glass area must not be more than 2.6 square meters.
  • If you are planning on putting in downlights that are not CA rated, they will reduce the total thermal resistance of your ceiling. Therefore, the code states that you need to increase the R-value so that it can compensate for the downlights. (CA rated means ‘closed-abutted’ – in this case, ceiling lights that have insulation to their sides or not).
  • When you calculate the R-value of your heated floors, you should not include the R-value of carpets or any other floor coverings, in section.
  • If you are planning on having heated walls and/or ceiling, you should know that higher R-values are required by the building code. This means that walls need to be R 2.6 and ceilings R 3.5.
  • All your plumbing should be isolated.
  • The deck, stairs, railings or hand rails should not be included when calculating the R-value.
  • Your basement should be isolated as well.
  • Make sure your garage is not drafty and losing heat.

Building Code Enforcement and House InsulationAnother important part covered in the building code enforcement that is linked to insulation is efficient energy use. These requirements are quit strict because the states, headed by NYC  and California, which began enforcing its regulations around 1968, have noticed that it really does work. When efficient energy use rules are put in place, energy consumption remains flat. This is the main reason why they have building code enforcement officers as well. Here are some of the requirements, so that you can get approval:

  • Replacing old appliances with new models, which are more evolved technologically speaking and benefit from a special design for consuming less energy. They can use up to 40 per cent less energy than older models and lower the electrical bill.
  • Replacing some appliances with manual solutions, where possible. For example, using the dishwasher less and washing more dishes by hand or installing an old-fashion clothes line, so that you use less of the clothes drier.
  • Using nature as an ally. For example, planting trees, both leafy and evergreen near your house, so that they can act as a barrier and provide shade in summer, which means you’ll be using less of your air conditioner and protecting the house from wind and snow storms in the winter, which means less heating.
  • Painting your roof in light colors. Dark roofs can become overheated in summer as dark colors attract sunlight by definition. The simplest solution here, in order to keep your roof and, therefore, your house cooler during hot summers is to paint the roof in light colors.
  • Hurricane regulations need to be followed as well, even if in basics.

The rules, regulations and requirements of the building code regarding insulation are not difficult as far as code compliance goes, even if we are talking about the situation where you build a new house or insulate an existing one. All you have to do is make sure you do your homework before you start planning and designing.

Image Sources: 1, 2

Filed Under: Heating Tagged With: building code, building code enforcement, building code enforcement on insulation, Insulation, international building code, model building code, winter, winterization

Insulation

August 26, 2013 by HVAC Expert

Insulation Types
By Betty Stephens

white blown insulation

Insulation Overview
Insulation forms a thermal blanket around your home, saving money and improving comfort. The maximum thermal performance or R-value of insulation is very dependent on proper installation. Homeowners can install some types of insulation notably blankets and materials that can be poured in place. Other types require professional installation.

When insulating your home, you can choose from many types of insulation. To choose the best type of insulation, you should first determine the following:
• Where you want or need to install/add insulation.
• The recommended R-values for areas you want to insulate.
Insulation is rated in terms of thermal resistance, called R-value, which indicates the resistance to heat flow. The higher the R-value, the greater the insulating effectiveness. The R-value of thermal insulation depends on the type of material, its thickness, and its density. In calculating the R-value of a multi-layered installation, the R-values of the individual layers are added.
Types of Insulation
There are four basic types of insulation out there: bats/blankets, spray foam, loose fill and rigid board. The most appropriate kind to use is going to depend on where you’re installing insulation. Different kinds of construction and the extent of rehabilitation will affect what you need, as will code requirements. While pink blanket insulation is the most familiar, you should remember that there are a lot of other options.

rolld insulation
Loose Fill
This type of insulation is made up of a loose pellet or fiber mix, and is blown into the building using special types of equipment. It can be synthetic, or made of a natural material like recycled cotton and wool from the fiber industries. Benefits of this kind of insulation include easier filling of small spaces and better sound insulation. However, it’s also costlier and can get everywhere. The most common type is cellulose fiber, chemically treated to prevent rot and fire dangers. Make sure the material meets regulations in your areas. There are also fiberglass and rock wool loose fill insulation, which are blown into the open stud cavities. Generally, loose fill types of insulation have R values of about R-3 to R-4 per inch of depth, while cellulose has about thirty percent more insulating value than a rock wool variety.

Blankets and Batts

These are the least expensive types of insulation and probably the most common if you’re installing insulation at home. Made either from processed fiberglass or rock wool, they’re used to insulate the areas above ceilings, below floors, and inside walls. Carefully installing this insulation is important if you want it to work effectively. This is a type that’s best for standard stud, joist, and rafter spacings, since it’s cut in widths that securely fit between the members. Some have radiant barrier backing, while other brands are merely backed with paper. Batts are usually four to eight feet long, while blankets come in long rolls that are cut to fit. R values for this kind of insulation are about R-3 per inch in thickness.
Rigid Board

Usually made from polyurethane, fiberglass or polystyrene, this substance comes in many thicknesses and has an extremely high insulating value of about R-4 to R-8 per inch of thickness. This type of insulation is commonly used for reproofing work on flat roofs, as perimeter insulation at the edges of concrete slabs, and in basement walls. It may also be used to provide insulation in cathedral ceilings.
When used in interior installations, it has to be covered with a building code approved material, such as half inch gypsum board, to achieve the desired amount of fire safety. When installing insulation of this type outside, you’ll need to cover it in a weather proof facing that meets your local codes.

Spray Foam

This type of insulation comes as a two part liquid – the polymer and the foaming agent. Usually, the polymer in this case is a modified urethane, or a polyurethane. This liquid is sprayed into the cavities in walls, ceilings and floors, and expands during application, becoming a solid plastic filled with lots of tiny air filled cells. This makes it easy to fill unusual spaces. Installing installation of this type must be done by a professional with dedicated equipment for mixing, measuring, and spraying. This insulation is commonly in use in retrofits, since it works well for oddly shaped areas and can be installed around obstructions.

This type of insulation costs more than a traditional batt insulation, but can be cost effective anyway. This is because it forms an air barrier and an insulation, eliminating the need for caulking, taping joints, applying house wrap or vapor barrier, and other detailing.

spray foam

Installing Insulation
The maximum thermal performance or R-value of insulation is very dependent on proper installation. Homeowners can install some types of insulation — notably blankets and materials that can be poured in place. Other types require professional installation.
When hiring a professional certified installer:
• Obtain written cost estimates from several contractors for the R-value you need, and don’t be surprised if quoted prices for a given R-value installation vary by more than a factor of two.
• Ask contractors about their air-sealing services and costs as well, because it’s a good idea to seal air leaks before installing insulation.
Insulation Advice
Follow this link to view the Department of Energy tips and advice web site on insulation. Department of Energy Insulation link.

insulation chart

Filed Under: Cooling, Heating, Latest News, Residential, Residential Tagged With: Air conditioning, attic insulation, batt insulation, blown insulation, foam insulation, Insulation, R value, thermal envelope

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