Sindy Aubrey | All Things HVAC

How to Install a Nest Thermostat

Today, we’re going to talk about how to install a Nest thermostat. If you didn’t know, these thermostats are ones that learn what temperatures you like. It learns by recording when you change the temperature. Once you do this for a few days, the thermostat will automatically start doing it. It can also sense when you’re not home and go into energy saving mode, as well as making different rooms different temperatures depending on what you set the sensor to. While the sensors are sold separately, you can buy one for each room so they all have the right temperatures.

Why You Might Need to Install a Nest Thermostat

There are a few reasons why you might be interested in getting a Nest thermostat. For starters, if your child likes their room cool but you like the rest of the house warm, this thermostat will let you achieve both. Another reason why you might be interested in this thermostat is that you want to reduce your energy bill and be more eco-friendly. The reason this thermostat can help you do this is that it can sense when you aren’t home and it will turn down the temperature and go into energy saving mode. This means it will only be going full blast while you’re actually there and enjoying it.

Since the Nest thermostat records what temperatures you set it to and when it makes everything much more convenient. You don’t have to take the time to get up, go to the thermostat, and put it to the temperature you want because this thermostat does it for you automatically. It will get on a schedule and put the temperature where you want it and when you want it there. If this thermostat seems like something you are interested in, then keep reading to see how to install a Nest thermostat.

Tools & Specs to Keep in Mind

Before you continue reading to see how to install a Nest thermostat, you want to make sure you have all the tools you’ll need and, if you don’t, you’ll want to make sure you can easily get them. The things you’ll need to do a complete install of the thermostat are listed below.

The thermostat itself;
Sensors if you want different temperatures for different rooms;
A small Phillips head screwdriver to remove the wires from your old thermostat.

These are the only tools you’ll need and the install will take about 30 minutes. The package includes tape with letters that will help with labeling the wires.

In terms of specs for this thermostat related to others, there aren’t really any that would need extra research or explanation. It’s pretty straightforward and the only difference is that the technology is better than the thermostats that aren’t considered smart devices.

How to Install a Nest Thermostat in 14 Steps

This is where we’re going to go into detail and look at the steps on how to install a Nest thermostat. It’s relatively simple and, as long as you don’t skip any steps, you’ll have your thermostat up and working in no time!

Go to the circuit breaker and turn off the power to your thermostat so you don’t end up shorting out the wires or getting electrocuted.
Use the blue stickers that came in the package to label the wires. Make sure you look at the diagram to make sure you’re labeling the right wires.
Remove the wires from the old thermostat and unscrew it from the wall.
Bring the wires through the Nest plate and use the little bubble level to make sure it’s level. Make a mark so you know where it will go.
This step is optional, but if you want to cover up the old screw holes then you’ll want to install the trim plate.
Use the screws and screwdriver that came in the package to install the Nest base into the wall.
Put the labeled wires into the right spots on the Nest. A small tab will go down once you insert the wire correctly.
Line up the small rectangle connector on the back of the Nest display with the rectangle on the base plate and attach the display.
Go back to the circuit breaker and turn the power on.
Connect the Nest thermostat to your Wi-Fi.
Follow the setup instructions that you see on the screen.
Set your temperature.
Download the Nest app on your devices.
Connect the Nest to your smart devices.

Caution Notes

While there aren’t too many cautions to take into consideration, there are a few very important things you need to do. The first one is to make sure the power to the thermostat is not on before you begin working on it. This will help make sure you don’t electrocute yourself or end up shorting out the wires in your home. The other important thing is if your old thermostat is either 120V or 240V, then don’t try to install the Nest thermostat. This is also true if the thermostat has thick wires because the Nest won’t work correctly.

Drawing to a Close

Now you know how to install a Nest thermostat and some of the important things to consider. You should be able to decide whether or not it’s something that you would like to have. Not only is it easy to install, but it can make your life easier and your home feel more comfortable. You can also end up saving a good amount of money on your energy bill, as well as being more eco-friendly. If this sounds like something you want or you have any questions, leave a comment below! Anyone who has installed one on their own is also welcome to comment!

Image source: depositphotos.com

How to Recharge an AC Unit

Most of the air conditioning units these days are centralized in nature. If you come home after a long day at work or from a walk in broad daylight, it could not get more annoying to see the AC at your place not working or getting charged. There is a complicated phenomenon involving the transfer of heat upon which the air conditioning units function. All of this is facilitated by a refrigerant. And whenever there is a decline in the refrigerant level, it is a clear indication that your centralized AC unit needs a recharge. It happens as the transfer of heat does not occur with low refrigerant levels. That’s why it’s important to learn how to recharge AC unit.

Since the options are plenty in number, it is extremely important that you know the kind of refrigerant the AC unit uses. If you use a wrong combination, it would be worse than having a non-functional air conditioning system. If all of this seems too technical to you, just call in an expert who would get the job done for you. But if you decide to do it yourself, then the following steps could be of great assistance to you.

How to Recharge an AC Unit

Step 1. Locate the Compressor

Almost every air conditioning unit comes with a documented manual for help. If you are not aware where the compressor is, then use the manual and locate it. In its appearance, the compressor looks identical to a metal cylinder. Here, some information on troubleshooting an AC compressor might come in handy if you’re encountering issues with it.

Step 2. See If Everything Works

An important step to remember before adding the coolant is to check if all the remaining components are in a functional condition. It is crucial because if you add the coolant and the root cause is something else, then it would mess up the whole system in a bad way. In that case, you would be looking at not only more effort but also more money to fix it. But once you identified that the cooling agent is the root cause, proceed to step 3.

Step 3. Locate the Service Valve

The next step is to find out where the service valve is. Once you have located it, connect it to the compressor line in the AC unit. If you are not totally sure about this step in how to recharge an AC unit, you might either use instructions on the kit or use some reviewed online resources to complete the task.

Step 4. Locate the Tap Valve

The next step is to locate the tap valve. Use the instruction manual if you have difficulty locating it. Once you find out where the tap valve it, connect it to the remainder of the compressor line.

Step 5. Add Cooling Agent

The next step in the process of how to recharge an AC unit is to add the cooling agent to the lines. To accomplish this task, you need to attach the container containing the cooling agent to both the valves you installed in the previous steps. In simple terms, the air conditioner will act as a potent force to let the cooling agent like freon inside the unit. There will always be an instructional manual and if you have difficulty with anything, follow the instructions.

Step 6. Let the Cooling Agent Flow

At this stage of learning how to recharge an AC unit, you have completed the installation of a brand new refrigerant to the air conditioning unit at your house. For now, just let the free flow of the cooling agent happen. To accomplish this, the only thing you need to do is to set the air conditioning unit at the highest possible setting once you turn it on. This simple step would let the cooling agent into the air conditioning unit while the AC unit gets recharged automatically.

Step 7. Unplug the Cooling Agent and the Valves

Once you identified that the air conditioning unit has consumed all of the cooling agent, then just turn off the ac unit. Finally, you just need to unplug the cooling agent container as well as both the valves.

Safety Precautions

Learning how to recharge an AC unit is a skilled job but it could be risky in some situations. You need to be extra careful while dealing with the refrigerant because of its toxic nature. If by any chance you inhale it, it might have serious repercussions on your health. Even while performing a simple task of checking the older refrigerant or removing it, cover yourself appropriately with either gloves or mask. It might be a bit inconvenient, but it will only protect you from any possible reaction.

When you talk about the legality of performing such tasks on the air conditioning units, not all areas are free zones. There are some geographical locations where you need an official license to accomplish the task. Only because most of the refrigerants are available as over the counter products does not imply you could start using it if you decide to purchase one. Do your own diligent research and be very cautious about the state laws where you reside which clarify how to recharge an AC unit.

Conclusion

Even though all of the above tasks could sound very simple in theory, it might not be the case all the time. The reasons for an AC malfunctioning could vary depending on what’s wrong. However, all the detailed steps mentioned above could give you a good head-start to the project.

But if you feel you are not completely sure about how to recharge an AC unit on your own, do not attempt it as it might potentially mess something else in the air conditioning unit. There are plenty of skilled professionals out there. They can do the job for you for a fee while you relax on your couch.

Image source: depositphotos.com

Williams Wall Heater Troubleshooting – Common Problems and Solutions

People who live in studio apartments, compact living spaces or work in smaller offices often choose wall heaters. They are preferred because they produce a comfortable amount of heat, which is great for the situations we mentioned above. They keep small living or working zones warm, using up very little floor space. We all know how annoying it is when your wall heater stops working, right? Luckily, on the Williams website, you can find useful Williams wall heater troubleshooting steps. Here you have the steps you need to follow for the Williams wall heater troubleshooting process.

Common Issues

The heater is not blowing warm air but either cold or cool. This can happen because of a dirty air filter or a leak in the duct system. You may not see it unless you go into your attic or crawl space. Check any pilot light issues to see if the gas valve is on. If not and you cannot light it, call a professional. There may also be not enough or not any fuel in the heater system.
The device will not stay on or lit. Some of the newer heating systems are electric and don’t have a pilot light. In this case, it might be that a sensor needs is dirty and needs to be cleaned off.
The heater will not turn off at all. It is possible that the switch is turned on auto instead of in the on position. If this is not the case, the thermostat or furnace may be broken. Replacing a thermostat can be a do-it-yourself task, but you may need to hire a professional to replace your furnace.
If none of these steps have fixed the problem, please contact a Williams wall heater troubleshooting professional for further instruction.

Tool You’ll Need for the Job

8 to 12-inch adjustable wrenches – for removing the heater control knob
Philips Flat head screwdriver – for loosening the knob stem nuts. You will also need it for face plate mounting screws and removing the unit from the wall.
Clean rag – for cleaning off the dirt that might be on the sensor or on the ducts.

Don’t any of these recommended tools or steps fix the problem with your wall heater? Please contact the Williams wall heater troubleshooting service.

Furnace Troubleshooting

The pilot will not stay lit even after following the lighting instructions. This could be from loose of dirty valve connections or a defective generator or gas valve.
No gas is going to the main burner – this could be from something as simple as the gas valve not in the on position or the furnace not plugged in. Also, a defective thermostat or valve could be the problem too.
The furnace is working but shuts off before heating up the room or is not producing enough heat – this could happen if the furnace you installed is too small for the area it is trying to heat or simply where you can find the thermostat.
The furnace is working but won’t shut off when it finally reaches the temperature desired – this can be from a defective thermostat or the thermostats wiring itself having an issue or a valve can’t close.

For any questions or concerns about these issues with your furnace, please refer to the Williams wall heating troubleshooting.

Caution Notes

Please let the furnace come to a cool down before examining it to prevent burns.
Never open a flue so that you expel gases into another room, a fireplace or any part of the inside of a building.
Do not allow clothing or other flammable or combustible items on or around the furnace. If you are unsure about what is and is not safe around the furnace or heaters, please refer to the Williams wall heater troubleshooting.
It is best to wear your own protective gear, for example, gloves and safety glasses, so to help in avoiding any injury by possible sharp metal ends or if you are standing around the furnace as you are cutting or drilling a hole in wood or metal.
Another good way to prevent any damage is if you are working with wires, label all of them prior to disconnecting them if needed. If you are unsure about the proper wires to disconnect, please refer to the Williams wall heater troubleshooting.
It’s a good idea to set the thermostat to the lowest temperature while working on the furnace or heating system.
It’s also a good idea to turn off all electric power to the heater while you are doing any adjustments to it.
It also helps to keep the burner and control compartment areas as clean as you can
In the case that you have a gas heater and you do smell gas first thing is to open all windows. Keep all appliances off, stay away from and do not touch any electrical switches. If you need to use your cell phone, step out of the house and do not use any landline phones while inside your house. If you happen to have a flame going such as in a fireplace, extinguish them. When outside with your cell phone, then call your gas company or if you do not have a cell phone available, please use a neighbor’s phone. The gas company may give you instructions but in case you cannot reach the gas company, call the fire department and the Williams wall heater troubleshooting to speak to a specialist immediately.

Conclusion

Even though wall heaters are very safe, always take into consideration that where you place your furniture is important. When it comes to a wall heater, it is best to keep them away from the outflow of heated air. That is really the only safety procedure one should consider when using a wall heater otherwise it has many excellent benefits.

With this, repairs are usually very minimal. However, if you do have questions or concerns about your wall heater and need some professional assistance, please contact the Williams wall heater troubleshooting service either by calling Williams or referring to their website for questions or instructions.

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Rheem Classic 90 Plus Troubleshooting – Common Problems and Solutions

This Rheem Classic 90 Plus troubleshooting guide is a go-to solution if your furnace stops working. The goal of this guide is to help identify the problem and find the best solution. Keep in mind that it is NOT a Do-it-Yourself guide. It is useful in case of an emergency, only when an experienced service member is not available.

The Rheem Gas furnaces are energy efficient units, designed to work for a long time. The heat exchanger made of stainless and aluminized steel provides corrosion resistance. Moreover, the blower section is insulated to decrease noise. There is also a direct spark mechanism ignites the Rheems furnace pilot light, for quick lighting.

Rheem Classic 90 Plus Furnace – Common Issues

Common issues you may encounter during the Rheem Classic 90 Plus troubleshooting.

Periodically perform standard maintenance to ensure the furnace operates satisfactorily for years. Always clean your unit before starting it for the winter season.

The first common issue is the Furnace is not putting out heat. The furnace is turned on, and you hear it working, but there is no heat coming out of the vents.
The furnace is not igniting. You push on the igniter, and it will not ignite the unit.
The heater is running all the time even when you lower the set point. It does not seem to stop running or shut off when it reaches the setpoint.
The unit is running hotter than normal. When you touch the housing, you feel it is hot to the touch.
The unit is heating certain rooms and not others. Some rooms do not get any heat while others are comfortably warm.
The gas bill is running exceptionally high compared to the average winter usage. The gas company is sending you notices of your higher energy consumption.
You see too much Soot or detect a strong gas smell.

Tools You Will Need

Caution: before you start the troubleshooting, turn off the furnace. Unplug from the power supply and remove the control door. Allow the gas in the lines to clear by turning off the gas control switch and wait 5 minutes. Make sure you do not smell any gas. If you detect a strong gas smell, stop and leave your house. Immediately contact the local fire department and your gas company.

To effectively fix the common problem, you will need the following tools:

A ¼ inch or a 5/16 inch nut driver or a bit
a cordless drill used to service the parts
An insulated handle screwdriver
A handheld vacuum
A Multi-Meter used to test the Thermocouple.

Rheem Classic 90 Plus Furnace Troubleshooting

Please follow this Rheem Classic 90 Plus troubleshooting guide to fix common problems.
Some of the troubleshooting tips that might save you time are as listed below.

1. Power

One of the most overlooked issues is Power. Always check that your furnace is plugged into the wall outlet and turned on. Check to see if the thermostat setpoint is higher than the indoor temperature. Press the reset button, no more than twice to reset the unit. If there is no power coming into the unit then, reset the circuit breaker if it was tripped off. Replace fuses with broken wires or if they turned black.

2. Thermostat Batteries

Check the thermostat batteries and replace them when necessary.

3. The Furnace

If you there is no heat out of the unit and no gas smell, then, turn off the furnace. Unplug from the power supply and remove the control door. Turn off the gas control switch and wait 5 minutes then remove the filter from the front panel. Replace the filter or remove the accumulated dirt and debris with a hand-held vacuum. Clean the filter with warm water and a few drops of dishwashing liquid. Rinse and air-dry thoroughly before inserting it in the furnace. Turn the switch to “On” position and close the control door. Turn on the furnace power.

4. The Igniter

If the igniter not on, then relight the pilot if it was turned off. Clean around the pilot light if it does not light and dry up any water. Use an insulated handle screwdriver to test the transformer. Check if the current arches when it touches one of the contacts. Replace the transformer if the current is weak. Replace any corroded or broken wires and electrodes.
Change the pilot thermocouple if all the previous items check.

5. The Combustion Chamber

If the unit is running hot, place your hand near the door of the combustion chamber. If it is hot, then the system has a blockage. Clean the chimney, the duct pipe, and the combustion chamber. Check and replace the heat exchanger and gaskets if broken.

6. The Vent

Check when the heat comes on if it heats up certain rooms only. If so, place your hand on each room’s vent and, if you don’t feel any airflow coming out of those vents, then clean their ducts. Replace any crushed or broken exterior piping. Clear any obstruction from interior vents.

7. Replacing the Thermostat

If your heater is running all the time even when you lower the setpoint, then replace the thermostat.

8. Efficient Appliances

If your gas bill is higher than your average, then you may have added an inefficient appliance. It may increase your energy usage.

9. Emergency Advice

If you see Soot or smell gas, immediately turn off your furnace and leave the house. Call the fire department or the local gas company. Return home when you get a clear communication that it is safe to return.

Caution Notes

Immediately turn off your furnace if you smell gas. Contact your gas company or the fire department and leave the house. Do not enter your home until you receive the clear signal.
Keep all combustible material away from the unit.
Remain clear of heat sources while performing the Rheem Classic 90 Plus troubleshooting.

Be aware of dust and allergens while cleaning your filter. Please use precautions if you have any respiratory issue.
Immediately, contact your physician if you experience a severe allergic reaction. Or go to the nearest emergency room if you have difficulty breathing or swelling of the tongue.

Conclusion

We hope the Rheem Classic 90 Plus troubleshooting guide shed light on problems your furnace may encounter. And the recommended fixes needed during its lifetime. If you find this information helpful, leave us a comment in the section below. We welcome your feedback and value your input.

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Trane Air Conditioner Troubleshooting – Common Problems and Solutions

Trane is an HVAC unit reputable for being dependable and the highest in quality. Nevertheless, there may be times when maintenance and troubleshooting become necessary. On the Trane.com website, there is an easy step guide for troubleshooting that you can follow before calling your local Trane Comfort Specialist™ in case there might be a serious problem with your unit. This information will help the Trane Comfort Specialist™ have an idea of what the issue might be beforehand. It is not encouraged to try to maintain your HVAC system yourself, so noting the mentioned symptoms that are stated on the website is the best step to take before calling your Trane Comfort Specialist™ for Trane air conditioner troubleshooting advice.

Common Issues

1. No Cold Air

The possible basis for this problem could be a coil that is congested. To avoid this issue, keep the unit clear of any foliage or debris that might cause a blockage. Another possible cause could be the filter is congested with dirt and dust. Replace the filters regularly. If you are unsure of how often to change your filter or where the filter is located please consult your local Trane Comfort Specialist™ for Trane air conditioner troubleshooting recommendations. Another possibility for no cold air is that your thermostat is not set properly. Try turning the thermostat off and then back on to see if that may help with the issue, then you can set it to the temperature that you desire for your home or business.

2. No Air Movement

A possible reason for no air movement is there blown fuse or an open circuit breaker. It is recommended to change the blown fuse or reset the circuit breaker to possibly fix this issue. Also, check the return grills for obstruction. If you are unsure of how or where to check, please consult your local Trane Comfort Specialist™ for Trane air conditioner troubleshooting advise.

3. System Running Constantly

It is probable that your thermostat is set higher than it should be. It is advised to turn the thermostat off and then back on and then correct it to a level that is comfortable for your home or business.

4. The Drain Pan Is Overflowing

The pan under the unit inside your home or business collects condensation which is supposed to be dispersed into a drainage pipe. If this is the problem, it is possible the electric pump that moves the water has become unplugged or there might be an obstruction in the pipe itself. Please consult your local Trane Comfort Specialist™ Trane air conditioner troubleshooting advises if you need help with this problem.

Tools You’ll Need for the Job

• A battery powered drill – 18 volts minimum is recommended, with two batteries and a charger. A drill usually comes with a Phillips bit, but make sure you buy a 1/4″ hex bit for this is the most common kind of screw that would be used in HVAC repairs.

• Electric tester – with HVAC repairs, you will be working with live electrical power, so its best to have an electrical tester preferably one that can perform multiple functions such as having a multi-meter.

• Screwdrivers – Various sizes and types of screwdrivers will always is considered valuable. Screwdrivers with protected handles are the greatest choice so to make sure you are safe from electrical shock.

• Hex head nut drivers – Most HVAC systems are built and installed with hex-head screws and bolts. Three sizes are most common: 1/4″, 3/8″, and 5/16″.

Furnace Troubleshooting

1. Make Sure the Thermostat Is Set on Heat

It’s possible not to have the thermostat set properly so make sure to set it at a temperature that will turn the furnace on.

2. Check If the Filter Is Clean

A congested filter will limit the airflow of the furnace and although it will continue to run, it will run with less heat air flow and run less efficient.

3. Change the Thermostat Batteries

Although most thermostats are connected to the electrical system, some use batteries. If you are not sure, please call your local Trane Comfort Specialist™ for Trane air conditioner troubleshooting advise. The ones that do use batteries will flash a low-battery symbol when they need to be replaced.

4. Check the Gas Valve

First, make sure the valve is not set in the off position. If it happens to be on and if you have other appliances that run on gas, check to see if that is working to make sure you don’t have a problem with a gas line. If any of these issues are not easily fixed, please consult your local Trane Comfort Specialist™ for Trane air conditioner troubleshooting advise.

Caution Notes

• One bit of advice is to have a carbon monoxide detector with fresh batteries near the furnace always. Carbon monoxide, which is colorless and odorless can become an issue during repairing and/or maintaining your HVAC system.

• It’s also best to turn off the power switch when performing basic maintenance.

• If you have severe allergies, it is suggested to use permanent HEPA type filters. However, make sure they are cleaned regularly. Another way of controlling the allergens coming into your home or business is covering Trane Comfort Specialist™ for Trane air conditioner troubleshooting advise.

• Cover the duct with a filter. In the past, people have placed a piece of cheesecloth over the ducts, but companies now offer special types of filters that you can Velcro over the duct. Please ask your local Trane Comfort Specialist™ for Trane air conditioner troubleshooting advise about what is offered regarding this type of filter.

Conclusion

A knowledgeable and experienced homeowner in HVAC do it yourself maintenance and repairs will save money with this. They will have a healthier, more comfortable home especially by having the basic facts. It’s important to use these advised troubleshooting steps, as well as know when the issue is beyond your control. This may make you not need the assistance of a Trane Comfort Specialist™.

Are you ready to attempt maintenance on your HVAC system or does it seem it needs repair? Trane offers various ways to discuss or ask questions via their Facebook page, as well as their YouTube channel. There may be some of you who have been very successful in this adventure. In this case, you could share your experiences with others who are contemplating maintenance and repair on their system. Please feel free to do so and by keeping the communications lines open. Your advice may help another homeowner in a way you did not consider.

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White Rodgers Thermostat Troubleshooting – Common Problems and Solutions

Today we are going to have a look at a guide to White Rodgers thermostat troubleshooting. It is advisable that you try the following tips and suggestions before contacting White Rodgers. Please make sure that no matter the instructions, if in fact, it becomes an emergency, then immediately contact White Rodgers troubleshooting and speak to one of their specialists.

For a complete review of this device, don’t forget to check out our dedicated page on the White Rodgers thermostat.

Common Issues

First, make sure that the power supply to your house or business is still on if, in fact, the HVAC is not working at all. This could happen in case of blown fuses or tripped breakers.
Secondly, check the thermostat and see if it has been set to heat. If it is, raise the temperature slightly and you should hear a click sound that is made when the system is turned on. If you don’t hear this sound, it could be possible the batteries need to be changed.
Please make sure you disconnect the wires from terminals R and C before you remove the batteries. If you cannot figure out how to disconnect the wires, please contact White Rogers troubleshooting on their website or contact them by phone. They will help you to disconnect and reconnect the wires properly.
Thirdly, change the thermostat setting to cool. Again, listen for the clicking sound as you lower the temperature slightly and if you do not hear it click on, then check to see if the batteries need to be changed.
Another possible issue could be a short in the wires. Each wire should be checked and there should be no bare wires exposed. If you see this or are unsure of how to fix this issue, please contact the White Rogers troubleshooting specialists preferably by phone in case they may need to send a professional to fix it professionally.

Tool You’ll Need for the Job

Screwdriver – Use it to remove the front face-plate and unscrewing all the fasteners. You can also use it to disconnect the wires.
Cell phone camera – Take a picture of the initial position of the wires to help you place the wires back after replacing a bad wire.
Masking tape – You can use the tape to label the wires to later recognize where their screw-terminal was before disconnecting the wires. The tape is also useful for securing the wires to the wall, avoiding them from sliding into the wall opening.

Furnace Troubleshooting

Check the furnace filter – Dust can rapidly block up a filter, which obstructs the flow of air and negatively affects the quality of the indoor air. This can also stop the furnace from turning on and in some cases become hazardous.
Check the thermostat – In some cases, you may just need to replace the batteries. Alternatively, you may need to open the inside housing and clean it from dust and debris.
Check furnace switch and panel – Make sure that you didn’t accidentally turn off the furnace switch. If that is not the case, then check the breaker box to see if the breaker is still in the on position. If it is in the on position and you want to reset it, just turn it off and then back on. You can also turn the switch on the furnace off and then back on as well to see if that fixes the problem. If neither one works, please contact a White Rodgers troubleshooting specialist.
Check the furnace flame – The flame should be a vibrant color blue. If it is not blue, please contact a White Rodgers troubleshooting specialist to send out a professional.
Pilot light or gas valve – If you see that the furnace flame is out, you can relight it. Please consult the owner’s manual before relighting the flame so to follow their instructions precisely for safety reasons.
Front panel – Make sure you shut the front panel securely. Some furnaces will not work unless you do this.
Check vents – Check all the supply and return grills for any obstructions such as furniture, carpets, or anything that could be obstructing the air flow.

Caution Notes

Please ensure that your hands and feet are fully dry before trying any of the advised troubleshooting steps.

If your furnace is 15 years old or more, you may need to replace it. If you are unsure if this is necessary, please contact a White Rodgers troubleshooting specialist and they will be able to look up the model of your current furnace and advise you on what’s the next best step to take.
In the event of changing filters, if you have severe environmental allergies, please wear a mask while changing a filter whether it be for your furnace or HVAC. If you are unsure of what type of filter to use, please contact White Rodgers troubleshooting specialists and they will advise you on which filter is best for your system.

Conclusion

Emerson Electric Company, the makers of the White Rodgers thermostat, offer user-friendly instructions on troubleshooting and maintaining their thermostat as well as how to program and adjust your thermostats. Furthermore, they offer a download of the manual for the White Rodgers thermostat. Emerson Electric Company has a Facebook page where customers can ask questions and even offer advice for other customers on products and troubleshooting tasks.

Water Heater Temperature – All You Need to Know about It

The sweet spot for water temperature reduces the risk of scalding but delivers enough hot water for your household demand. Not too hot, and not too cold. Call it the Goldilocks setting! This guide gives step-by-step instruction for adjusting water heater temperature to the optimum setting.

Some manufacturers suggest setting water temperature to 140F. However, 140-degree water causes third-degree burns in three to five seconds. It also increases standby heat loss. Setting the thermostat as low as 100F could mean running out of hot water during peak demand. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) and the Department of Energy agree that 120F offers both safety and reduced energy consumption while providing sufficient hot water.

Steps to Adjusting Water Heater Temperature

Here’s an overview of how to adjust water heater temperature to 120F. Each step is explained fully below. First, you’ll want to find out the current water temperature using a thermometer. If the temperature isn’t where you want it, the next steps will be to locate the thermostat on the water heater and make the necessary change. After waiting for the water heater temperature to adjust, you’ll check it again. The last step is to mark the thermostat dial when the temp is right where you want it.

Step 1: Check the Current Water Temperature

If you have a tank-style water heater, don’t use hot water for 30 minutes before checking the temperature. You want the water completely heated before checking it. Run the tap farthest from the water heater long enough to be sure you’re getting the hottest water possible. Fill a mug, and place a food thermometer’s probe in the water. It might take up to 20 seconds to reach full temperature.

Step 2: Locate the Water Heater Thermostat

There are three common water heater types, and here’s where you’ll find the thermostat for each:

Gas tank-style water heater: The thermostat is on the outside of the tank near the bottom of the unit. It’s marked with temperature indicators such as “Very Hot” and/or letters A, B, and C.
Electric tank-style water heater: Most electric water heaters have two heating coils, top and bottom, and two thermostats. Each will be found behind a raised cover with one or more screws. Remove the cover and any fiberglass insulation covering the thermostats.
Tankless water heater: Most tankless units have the thermostat dial or a digital temperature display on the outside front of the unit.

Step 3: Mark the Current Thermostat Setting

When adjusting the water temperature, you’ll want a reference point for where you started.

On gas models, a raised arrow on the non-movable part of the thermostat shows the current setting. On electric models, a post with a slot in it replaces the dial. The settings, often actual temperatures such as “125F”, are printed on the fixed part of the thermostat.
On either type, use a dry erase marker to mark the current setting. If you don’t have a dry erase marker, place a small piece of tape on the thermostat, and mark it with a pen or permanent marker.
If the thermostat has a digital reading, jot down its current setting.

Step 4: Adjust and Mark the New Thermostat Setting

Many water heater thermostats have five marks on the dial: Hot = 120F, A = 130F, B = 140F, C = 150F and Very Hot = 160F

On a gas tank-style water heater, simply turn the dial to your preferred setting or between printed settings.
On an electric tank-style unit, insert a flathead screwdriver tip into the slot, and make the adjustment by turning the post.
Use the Up/Down arrows on a digital thermostat to make your adjustment.
Once you’ve changed the water temperature setting, mark the new point without removing the original mark.

Step 5: Recheck the Water Temperature

The water temperature in a tank-style water heater needs to adjust to the new setting. You can wait 12-24 hours for this to occur, or you can speed the process by running a significant amount of hot water and letting the water heater recover. Be energy-smart by running a dishwasher load or a couple loads of laundry rather than wasting the hot water.

Repeat steps 3 through 5 until the water is right where Goldilocks would want it, not too hot and not too cold.
Remove any tape you’ve applied, and use a permanent marker to mark your ideal temperature.

A Health Warning and an Energy Saving Tip

While water of 120F is ideal for most households, there’s a slight risk of legionellae bacteria in the warm-but-not-hot water. The DOE recommends a water heater temperature of 140F for those with “a suppressed immune system or chronic respiratory disease.” If you choose the 140F setting, beware the burn risk, especially to children, the elderly and pets. A word of caution to guests in your home will prevent accidental burns.

While this guide has been about adjusting your water heater’s temperature, we’ll throw in an energy-saving tip too. When you plan to be away from home for more than a day or two, turn your water heater to the lowest setting. If it’s an electric water heater, consider turning it off. Keep in mind you’ll have a short wait for hot water after you get home and turn the water heater on or up.

Adjusting the water heater temperature is definitely a DIY job using these easy steps. In a day or less, you’ll have water everyone can use safely that’s hot enough for laundry and bathing. Sharing this information with others is a great way to help them locate the Goldilocks setting that’s just right for all their household needs.

Images source: depositphotos.com

How Does a Dehumidifier Work?

When we’re asked how does a dehumidifier work, the questioner is either curious or is really asking why their dehumidifier isn’t working as it should. For both the inquisitive and frustrated, this post explains how a dehumidifier removes excess moisture from the air.

The Steps section below details how a dehumidifier works and includes tips on what to do if it isn’t doing its job. After reading this post, “How does a dehumidifier work,” you’ll both understand the process and how to get maximum benefit from your appliance.

Dehumidifier Steps and Solving Common Problems

Here’s an overview of the process. A dehumidifier works by pulling in moist air and condensing moisture out of it to dry the air. The unit contains tubing filled with refrigerant. The refrigerant is circulated by the compressor first to an evaporator where it collects heat from the air and then to a condenser where heat is squeezed out of it. But heat isn’t the issue. Moisture is.

The purpose of using refrigerant to capture heat from the air around the evaporator is to make the evaporator cold enough for moisture to condense on it. The condensed water drains into a collection bucket or drain tube. Voila, the air is dehumidified! Now, let’s break down “how does a dehumidifier work” steps and solve common dehumidifier problems.

Step 1. The Dehumidifier Pulls in Moist Air

A fan in the dehumidifier pulls humid air into the front of the appliance. If this isn’t happening, the most common problem is that the humidistat, indicating how dry you want the air, is set below the humidity level in the room. Turn it up, like turning up a thermostat until the furnace comes on, to make the dehumidifier start. If you turn it up all the way, and nothing happens:

The collection tank is full, prohibiting the unit from turning on. Check and dump the tank, if needed.
The air is drier than the driest setting on the humidistat, so the compressor won’t start circulating refrigerant.
The fan or electrical components aren’t working and need repair.

Step 2. Refrigerant Captures Heat in the Evaporator

If warm air is being blown out the back of the dehumidifier, it is collecting heat as it should.

If the fan is running, but no heat is being removed from the air:

Your unit might have a continuously running fan, but the humidistat setting is too low to cause the compressor to come on and start circulating refrigerant. Adjust the humidistat to a drier setting.
The dehumidifier might be low on refrigerant, so it’s not collecting heat. It requires repair or replacing.

If the dehumidifier is working, but less effectively than it used to:

The refrigerant might be slowly leaking out, so repair or replacement is needed.
The air filter at the front of the dehumidifier might be dirty, reducing the intake of air. Take it out, and clean it.

Step 3. The Evaporator Gets Cold and Condenses Moisture

If the unit seems to be running normally, but little moisture is being condensed and collected or drained:

Turn up the humidistat until the compressor starts (you might hear it come on)
Check the evaporator, and clean it if it is covered with debris. Dirt prevents heat transfer.
Check to see if the float that descends into the collection tank is stuck in the “up” position that automatically shuts off the compressor to prevent overflow. If it is, gently pull it down, and remove dirt and debris from the float arm to free up its movement.

Step 4. Moisture Drains into the Tank or Drain Hose

If the unit shuts off when the air is still humid:

Empty the tank if it is full
Turn the humidistat to a drier setting

If the dehumidifier leaks:

Check to see if the float is stuck and not rising as the water rises. Turn off the dehumidifier, and gently push the float up. Clear debris from its arm that might be causing it to stick.
The drain hole, if it has one, might be plugged by debris, preventing water from entering the drain line. Search for and clear a clogged drain hole.

Step 5. Warm, Dry Air Comes Out the Back

We addressed a failed fan in Step 1.

If the fan is running, but the airflow seems diminished, clean the air filter.

In case the air coming out is cool, review Steps 2 and 3.

If the air that comes out smells bad:

Clean the filter if it is dirty.
Replace the filter or clean it with an oxygen bleach solution if it is moldy.
Empty the tank, and if it is moldy, clean it with an oxygen bleach solution

Tips for Maximum Dehumidifying

We’ve answered the basic question: “How does a dehumidifier work.” These tips will help you get the most from your unit.

Check the filter every few days, and clean it as needed.
If you have a drain hose attachment option, use it. This allows you to run the dehumidifier continuously. If you collect water in a tank, it will shut off when full, and you might not be able to empty it for hours or days. Simply make sure the hose runs to a floor drain.
Keep doors and windows shut. If humid air from outside continuously flows into space, it will never be dehumidified.
Run a vent hood fan when boiling liquid on the stove and the bathroom exhaust fan when taking a shower to remove humidity.
In warm weather, run a central AC or window unit to assist with dehumidification. Air conditioning uses the same technology, except that an AC moves warm air to the outside of your home while dehumidifying the indoor air.
If the space is below grade and humidity issues persist, contact a foundation specialist about damp-proofing your home’s basement or crawlspace.

Many homes have humidity issues that make them uncomfortable. When humidity leads to mold growth, the homes are unhealthy too. Many of your friends and social media followers probably wonder, “How does a dehumidifier work?” Passing along this post can help them, their families and pets live in a home that is comfortable and healthy.

Images sources: 1, 2

Top 8 HVAC Troubleshooting Apps

The top HVAC troubleshooting apps on any tech’s phone or tablet are amazing tools for cutting diagnostic and repair times, making customers happy and maximizing the profitability of every service call.

Consequently, these HVAC troubleshooting apps are available for Android and iOS. Purchase and/or download them wherever you get your apps including Google Play and iTunes. Here are the 8 best troubleshooting apps for HVAC and what sets them apart.

8 HVAC Troubleshooting Apps Every Technician Needs

You’ll be working smarter with these handy apps that take the hassle out of getting the job done right.

HVAC Buddy
AC Troubleshooter
HVAC Duct Sizer
HyTools
Imanifold
HVAC Check & Charge
Airflow Balancing Meter
HVAC Equipment Locator

We recommend a 5-step plan for making the most of them:

Review these apps to determine which seem most helpful for the HVAC-R work you do
Go to your app store to purchase each app, if necessary, and download it to your devices
Familiarize yourself with the apps you select before you need them
Put them to the test on the job
In time, replace apps that don’t live up to expectations by trying competing apps with better functionality

You’ll soon find a toolbox of HVAC troubleshooting apps that make work-life easier and more productive. Here is a closer look at the apps, their features and cost:

App 1: HVAC Buddy

Everybody loves HVAC Buddy – or at most do anyway, as its 80% approval ratings show. HVAC Buddy is an award-winning suite of tools and a library of information at your fingertips:

Specs on 70+ refrigerants
TEET/Airflow calculations
Superheat for fixed capillary and subcool for TXV & EXV
Targeted vs. actual subcooling calculations
Superheat and subcool tables or manual calculations
Diagnostics for overcharge, contaminants, leaks and more
Realtime temperature updates
Built-in instructions for using all the tools
com readers’ #2 favorite app
If you like the standard HVAC Buddy, the company makes a bunch more useful apps including a Load Calc and Duct Calc apps
$9.99
Get HVAC Buddy

App 2: AC Troubleshooter

They got the name right, but what about its features? There are quick troubleshooting guides for techs and homeowners too:

No heat/poor heat
No cool/poor cool
Noise – indoor/outdoor/both
Drains – Leaks
BTU/hour calculations
Free
Get AC Troubleshooter

App 3: HVAC Duct Sizer

Next, you have everything related to sizing ducts:

Size by airflow
Size by dimensions
Range of duct size options
Design with duct shapes
Convert rectangular dimensions to equivalent oval and opposite
Calculate by duct material
Have calculation results emailed to you to make a hard copy
$5.99
Get Duct Sizer

App 4: HyTools

That’s Hy, as in hydronics. The HyTools app is one of the best heating and air conditioning troubleshooting apps for those that install and repair hydronic boilers and systems. Moreover, it is feature-rich with:

Hydronic calculator (input two values to calculate the third)
Zeparo Dp calculation
Check flow Kv/Cv pressure drop calculations
Flow and valve setting pressure drop calculations
Dirt and air separator pressure drop calculation
Sizing for valves (including presetting) and pipes
Radiator power panel and column estimates
Conversions
Run-time localizations for 24 regions
Language selection for 16 languages
Free
Get HyTools

App 5: iManifold

This is one of the top HVAC troubleshooting apps that focuses on refrigerants. It’s a real pros tool, giving you quick, reliable calculations. Furthermore, there’s a bit of a learning curve, so test drive it in the shop before it’s go-to time on the job. Finally, iManifold offers:

HVAC/R system performance calculations
Troubleshooting of systems through the data you input (live system data)
40 selectable refrigerants (covers 90% of applications)
Automated data saving for cloud subscribers
Generates reports with a few taps
Regular updates add refrigerant information
Free
Get iManifold

App 6: HVAC Check & Charge

This top HVAC troubleshooting app does some of what HVAC Buddy can do, but it’s free. What’s more, the app is designed by industry leader Emerson. As such, HVAC Check & Charge is an instant mobile charge calculator for HVAC/R applications you can use to:

Quickly and accurately calculate R-22 and R-410A (Puron, et al) charges
Select Subcooling, Superheat or Airflow for your calculations
Enter the system temperature specs plus latent and sensible environmental loads
Use the derived data from the calculations to determine if the current charge is correct or needs to be altered
Free
Get HVAC Check & Charge

App 7: Airflow Balancing Meter

This is the perfect field companion to the best-selling ABM-100 airflow anemometer ($32-$40 from most retailers). As such, you just need to plug the meter into the headphone jack and get the reading instantly. Note: The Airflow Balancing Meter doesn’t work in about 25% of devices. Moreover, the issue seems to be related to the jack and not the app. It’s free, so there’s no harm in giving it and the anemometer a whirl.

Get the Airflow Balancing Meter app

App 8: HVAC Equipment Locator

Sometimes, the trouble is locating the piece of equipment that is scheduled for service or that sent a repair notification. The HVAC Equipment Locator uses GPS to guide service techs right to the spot. The app stores more than just location. Moreover, for every piece of equipment, it also:

Tracks maintenance data that can then be shared via the app with authorized users
Offers customization of the input screens for storing and viewing important data about each piece of equipment
Stores information for unlimited system components
Can be quickly updated with service information
Stores photos, spec sheets, and other useful information
Free
Get HVAC Equipment Locator

Getting Familiar with the Apps You Select

Finally, you’ll only use the apps you’re familiar with, and good apps only help if you use them properly. Put our 5-step plan into action, and you’ll soon be optimizing your productivity and maximizing your profits. If your colleagues in the HVAC industry are motivated about success too, they’ll appreciate you for passing along this guide to the top HVAC troubleshooting apps available.

Image source: depositphotos.com

Superheat and Subcooling: How to Measure Them

This brief guide explains how to measure superheat and subcooling. As a review, superheat is heat added to the refrigerant above its boiling point/saturation. Subcooling is removing heat from refrigerant below saturation. Measuring the superheating and subcooling of the refrigerant tells you if it is under the proper amount of pressure and can lead to a diagnosis of the refrigerant level and mechanical issues.

Step-by-step instructions on how to calculate superheating and subcooling values plus possible diagnosis using the measurements are included. Furthermore, the tools, tips, and techniques below assist you in streamlining the process for faster maintenance and diagnosis of the problem.

Why You Might Need to Know How to Measure Superheat and Subcooling

Knowing how to calculate superheat and subcooling (aka sub-cooling and subcooling) values is essential to ensuring proper refrigerant charge in air conditioning systems and refrigeration units. The measurements also assist in troubleshooting problems with the equipment. This is important because knowing superheat, subcooling and temperature difference (Delta) across a coil:

Allows an HVACR technician to ensure refrigerant levels are properly maintained for maximum efficiency and performance
Safeguards against improper diagnosis and repair such as diagnosing and replacing the compressor when the problem is something else. That’s a costly but very common mistake.

Tools and Specs to Keep in Mind

The primary tool for the job is a superheat/subcool meter or gauge. They’re produced by many brands in a price range from about $70 to $250. We suggest looking for one with presets for the refrigerants you work with most commonly – R22, R410a (Puron), R134a and R404a, for example. That eliminates the need for inputting the specific refrigerant’s specs.

A handy assistant when converting low-side and high-side pressure to temperatures is a phone app like Emerson’s Check & Charge. The free app is one of many great HVAC troubleshooting apps every tech should have. Its features include superheat (non-TXV) and subcooling (TXV) calculators for R22 and R410A. Check & Charge is available here for iOS and here for Android. A companion to it is the Danfoss Refrigerant Slider with pressure-to-temperature conversions for 80 refrigerants. Those are specs you must know to successfully evaluate the performance of the equipment you’re evaluating.

How to Measure Superheat and Subcooling

Here’s how to determine these values in a few easy steps for each.

Calculating superheat:

Measure the low-side pressure with your gauge.
Convert pressure to temperature with an app, slide or chart.
Next, take the temperature of the suction line where it leaves the condensing unit, though stay 4-6 inches from the compressor.
Use your measurements to determine the amount of superheat. For example, if suction line temperature is 65 degrees and your conversion of the suction pressure to temperatures yields 50 degrees, then the difference is 15 degrees of superheat.

Calculating subcooling:

Measure the high-side pressure with your gauge.
Convert pressure to liquid temperature with an app, slide or chart.
Measure the temperature of the liquid line where it meets the evaporator and before the metering device.
Finally, determine the difference in the temperatures determined in Steps 1 and 2 by subtracting the liquid temperature from the saturation temperature of the refrigerant you’re working with. A difference of 12-15 degrees is standard. For example, if your conversion of pressure to temperature yields 115 degrees for saturation and the liquid line temperature is 100 degrees, that’s 15 degrees of subcooling.

Note: Superheat should be 12-5 degrees in ambient air temperature below 85 and 8-12 degrees in warmer air. Subcooling should be 5-18 degrees, at the high end of that spectrum when the equipment has a TXV. Always go by the manufacturer’s specifications.

Using superheat and subcooling data in troubleshooting:

Low superheat: Too much refrigerant in the evaporator. It’s likely overcharged.
High superheat: Too little refrigerant in the evaporator. This might indicate that the system is low on refrigerant, but it’s just as commonly caused by insufficient heat getting to the evaporator (dirty filter or blower, undersized or blocked ductwork, plugged evaporator coil) or a dirty/defective metering device.

Caution Notes

Don’t try this at home! Diagnosing and repairing air conditioning and refrigeration is one of those jobs experienced DIY homeowners are wise enough to steer clear of. Moreover, working with refrigerant is not a DIY job unless you’re a licensed HVACR technician.

Only licensed techs can legally handle refrigerants. Additionally, overcharging and undercharging a system lead to serious issues with air conditioning and refrigeration equipment. There’s no reason to turn what might be a small problem into a major mechanical failure.

And here’s an important caution: Refrigerant might not be the issue. If you misdiagnose the cause of the problem, your solution won’t work. Consequently, the right approach is to leave the work to an experienced HVAC technician.

Hiring a Pro for your AC or Refrigerant Job

Finally, if this post interested you, it’s possible you ARE an HVACR pro. If so, we hope it was a good refresher in superheat and subcooling basics. We’d enjoy getting your feedback in the Reply box below. If you’re a homeowner diagnosing an AC or refrigerant issue, we’d recommend discussing the issue with a professional.As such, look for one certified by N.A.T.E., the North American Technician Excellence. The organization provides the most broadly respected training, testing, and certification for professionals in the HVACR industry. If you’re a hands-on homeowner that likes to know what the issue is, so you can fix it yourself or knowledgeably discuss it with a pro, you probably know other homeowners who feel the same. In the end, perhaps they’d benefit from this information on superheating and subcooling, so feel free to share!

Image source: depositphotos.com